Can Glow Recipe’s Divisive, ‘Gentle’ Acid Toner Really Give Me Long-Term Results?
Main image – Courtesy of writer
Unless you’ve been living under a big rock, you probably will have heard of viral beauty brand, Glow Recipe.
Founded by two former L’Oreal insiders and based on Korean skincare principles (so, really, really good ones…) the brand is hugely popular with TikTok and Instagram users thanks to its incredibly cute packaging and memorably delicious product names.
But whilst a fabulous brand personality is eye-catching, it can be a huge let down if the formulas and results themselves don’t match up. So, I’ve been putting their self-confessed ‘gentle’ Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner (from £14 from Cult Beauty UK / from $16 from Sephora US) to the test for the last three months to see if one of the brand’s most talked about products is worth all the hype.
Keep scrolling to find out how I got on.
The product details
Inspired by the Korean Aqua Peel Facial (one of the most popular in-clinic treatments in Korea), Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner is free of things like alcohol, parabens, sulphates and silicones, and contains hyaluronic acid, 3% PHA and 2% BHA, 16% glycerin and 62% blend of soothing watermelon extract and cactus water. All to hydrate, exfoliate and calm the skin, give it a glow and reduce the appearance of pores.
Image – Courtesy of writer
It comes in two sizes – a full sized 150ml bottle and a mini size at 40ml – and the brand also brings out a (very beautiful) rainbow edition for pride month. The tone is aimed towards all skin types, even sensitive, thanks to its gentle forms of BHA and PHA.
How I tested Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner
To make sure I got a proper insight into whether this toner was likely to have a long-term impact on my skin, I used it daily for just over 12 weeks.
I applied the toner straight after cleansing in the evenings, and before any serums or moisturisers. I didn’t regularly use it in the mornings and I made sure to not change anything else significant in my skincare routine at the same time as testing Pore-Tight to make sure other products didn’t affect my results. Here’s what I thought of the product.
First impressions
When they say the packaging’s cute, they mean it. I loved the look of my pink tinged glass 150ml bottle when I took it out of the box. It has a textured, curvy feel and a pink lid – so pretty, so luxe. But I was determined not to get distracted by the packaging.
The instructions say you can either apply the formula with your fingers or on a cotton pad. I much prefer using a cotton pad, so I chose the latter and as soon as I poured it out, I smelt its synthetic watermelon scent. It’s pretty strong – bordering on sickly – but I’m a bit of a scent fan so I didn’t mind.
Image – Courtesy of writer
It was quite hard to pour out as the formula is very gloopy but, to be fair, this is true of most Korean toner formulas (remember their love for snail mucin products?). On the cotton pad, it sailed around my skin nicely, although it did sink into the pad pretty quickly, so I had to move fast.
My results
Some BHA/PHA formulas can cause stinging, irritation or discomfort on my skin – particularly underneath my eyes – but not this one. It was extremely hydrating and above all, it felt really cooling.
The whole experience was really pleasant, and my skin felt smooth as it dried. You can also get an idea of the slight dewy effect this toner leaves in its wake from the swatch on my hand below. The watermelon smell is quite intense, but it doesn’t linger.
Image – Courtesy of writer
Despite being a BHA and PHA product, the brand claims their quantities are so gentle that you can use the toner every day. So I did! For the whole three months, I used it daily and that lovely cooling, hydrating feeling continued. Zero sting! So is it really that gentle? For me, yes! But here’s the bad news…that’s sort of where the good news stopped.
You see, I didn’t really notice any extra glow or ongoing results. Yes, it hydrates and feels great on application. But I sadly didn’t see my skin improving over the weeks, it was more of a feel-good quick fix at bedtime.
What other users are saying
To say this toner is divisive would be an understatement. For every positive comment, there always seems to be a contradiction.
Whilst lots of people have commented on it causing breakouts, on a thread on Reddit, Ravioli_meatball19 writes, “I really like it and it works for me. I’m currently suffering through a breakout from a product reaction, this has helped tremendously in healing the acne and hyperpigmentation from it. On a regular basis, it helps reduce my redness and reduce the appears [sic] of my pores and improve my skins hydration.”
Meanwhile, mothertuna says, “I’ve gone through countless bottles of it. I feel that it helps other products absorb better, smells good and helps my complexion look brighter.”
And MC907 writes, “I personally like it! My skin can be super sensitive and this doesn’t bother my skin at all. Other acids I’ve tried go fine for a while but I inevitably get the burning red patches, even if I make an effort to go slow.” I feel exactly the same and love that I can continue to use this every day without needing to worry about my skin burning or stinging.
However, some users have experienced discomfort. S4tiv4f4iry says “nooo!!! I do not recommend this product my skin is sensitive and it started burning and got so puffy.”
There have been comments about it possibly being more efficient on younger skin. “If you have mature skin with stubborn acne, then it may not be strong enough,” says slytherin_934.
And MrsFrizz18 says of the Watermelon Glow toner and drops, “I’m in my 30s, maybe they work for the younger crowd but they do nothing for me.”
As someone with occasional acne breakouts, I have to agree with this. It didn’t cause my breakouts, but it unfortunately wasn’t strong enough to make any positive, long-term difference to my skin.
Overall value for money
At £32/$28 for a full size bottle, this is a real investment. You have to really like it to spend this amount of money and use it every day. I think if you just treated it as a hydrating toner that calms and soothes the skin, with no expectations on long-term results, then it’s a great find.
But if your skin is more on the mature side and you’re looking for it to efficiently exfoliate and make a visible difference to your skin and pores over time, then it might not be worth the splurge as, personally, it doesn’t seem to do much more than hydrate and cool.
Image – Courtesy of writer
The Inkey List PHA Toner (£13 from Cult Beauty UK /$15 from Sephora US) has been touted by some users as a more affordable that offers similar results to Glow Recipe’s toner. Of course, it doesn’t have exactly the same shelf appeal but for less than half the price, we’ll take it!
I’m also a big fan of Korean brand Numbuzin, and their No.5 Vitamin-Niacinamide Toner Pads (£20 from Amazon UK /$20 from Amazon US) which help to even skin tone and fade dark spots. A nice alternative for anyone who wants the brightening effects without the skincare acids.
The takeaway
So, whilst I wasn’t overwhelmed by my results, I do enjoy how gentle and hydrating Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner is, plus other people seem to get on really well with it.
The brand is so popular and there are plenty of reasons why – loveable packaging, glowy formulas and good results for some. And, don’t forget, our readers voted the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dewy Flush as their readers’ choice winner in the Live That Glow Independent Beauty Awards – a huge accolade to the brand overall.
Whilst this particular product didn’t quite cut it for me in the long-term results stakes, I will still continue to use it in the evenings to get my fix of cooling hydration. It compliments my nighttime serum beautifully and, unlike with some acid toners, it doesn’t burn my skin or cause redness.
Get Glowing!
