The MUA-Approved Hooded Eye Makeup Secret That Changes Everything
Main image – Harald Krichel
Ruby Hammer MBE is a celebrity makeup artist, brand founder and regular Live That Glow columnist. She has been providing makeup education for more than 30 years. Here, she advises a reader on how to apply makeup on hooded eyes. Got a question for Ruby? Send it to columnists@livethatglow.com for a chance to have it featured.
Hi Ruby, I’m 38 and I have quite hooded eyes and have always found eye makeup difficult, but recently it feels almost impossible to get right. Eyeliner transfers, shimmer ends up on my brow bone, and anything too dark seems to make my eyes look smaller rather than more defined. I would love to know if there are specific placement techniques or finishes that work better for this eye shape, particularly for a more lifted, natural look.
Ruby says:
Hooded eyes are not difficult, they simply require a different approach. The key is to work with what is visible. If you can’t see it when your eyes are open, it won’t translate.
Start with structure. A well-groomed brow lifts everything. Use a clear or tinted gel such as my Mascara & Brow Duo to hold shape.
RUBY’S HOODED EYE PICKS
- Ruby Hammer Mascara & Brow Duo
- Vieve The Essential Palette
- Makeup By Mario Master Mattes Palette
- Ruby Hammer Precision Eyeliner Pencil
- Lancôme Lash Idôle Flutter Extension Mascara
Keep your palette simple. A neutral edit is far more effective than multiple colours. Begin with a soft taupe base shade, then build shape using a deeper tone, placed slightly above your natural crease so it remains visible. Palettes like Vieve The Essential Palette or Makeup By Mario Master Mattes are ideal.
For added definition, place a slightly deeper tone at the outer corner and just above the crease, blending upwards and outwards. Keep the lid relatively clean… heavy shimmer tends to transfer – instead, opt for matte or soft satin finishes.
Liner should be subtle. Tightening is the perfect technique for liner, work it into the lash line rather than above it, keeping it fine and lifting slightly at the outer corner.
My Precision Eyeliner Pencil is perfect for this. To finish curl the lashes and follow with a lifting and curling mascara such as Lancôme Curl Goddess Lash Idôle for a beautifully open effect. The lift comes from placement, not intensity.
Get Glowing!
