The Real Reason Your Makeup Starts Creasing Out Of Nowhere
Main image – Nabitang/Stocksy
Ruby Hammer MBE is a celebrity makeup artist, brand founder and regular Live That Glow columnist. She has been providing makeup education for more than 30 years. Here, she advises a reader on how to stop makeup settling into fine lines. Got a question for Ruby? Send it to columnists@livethatglow.com for a chance to have it featured.
I don’t know if this is just me getting older, but my makeup has started doing this weird thing where it looks fine when I leave the house and then by midday it’s basically gathered around my nose and mouth. Under my eyes is even worse – concealer just creases instantly now. I haven’t really changed what I use, so I’m wondering if it’s my skin that’s changed rather than the products? I don’t want to pile more on, I just want it to look smoother and a bit more fresh.
Ruby says:
There comes a point where makeup stops sitting on the skin and begins settling into it. It can feel as though something has gone wrong, but in truth, your skin has simply changed, and your technique needs to evolve with it.
Around the nose, mouth and under the eyes, the issue is usually a combination of movement and dehydration. These areas are active, and as skin becomes slightly less supple, product doesn’t hold in quite the same way.
The instinct is to add more. That is exactly what causes it to gather and crease. Instead, refine. Skin should feel hydrated, but never coated. Allow skincare to settle fully before applying makeup. If you experience oil through the T-zone, use a small amount of primer only where needed. Something like Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer or Milk Hydro Grip works well but keep it targeted and sheer.
Foundation should be applied sparingly and precisely. Around the nose and mouth, press in light layers rather than applying one even coat. Think of merging it into the skin rather than laying it on top. Lightweight bases such as Armani Luminous Silk are particularly forgiving.
Under the eyes, use the smallest amount of concealer possible. Place it only where there is darkness, then blend outwards. If it creases, there is too much. A fluid formula like NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer works beautifully.
Powder should be minimal and strategic. A light press through the centre of the face is usually enough. Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Powder or Hourglass Veil Powder will set without heaviness.
The goal is not a fixed, flawless mask, but skin that looks like skin.
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