Makeup Artists Break Down *Exactly* How to Apply Your Eyeshadow Like a Pro
Main Image – Live That Glow
If you’re someone who hasn’t got a clue about how to apply eyeshadow, this little corner of the internet was made for you.
So many techniques. So many tools. You’re holding your hands up, completely baffled, and quite frankly we salute your honesty.
But the fact that you’re still reading this, must mean you’re keen to learn. Am I right? So consider this your very own guide to applying eyeshadow for the very first time. It’s a simple crash course for anyone wanting to give it a go and who doesn’t know where to start.
So sit back and relax while makeup artists Monina Wright and Ashley Gibson share all their eyeshadow tips and tricks for new starters. And I’ll be sharing my personal tips too, including the absolute must-have product that you simply cannot apply eyeshadow without.
Congratulations. You have officially entered your eyeshadow era.
1. Build your eyeshadow kit
The tools
“Investing in good brushes can significantly improve your application,” says Gibson. “Different brushes serve different purposes, like flat brushes for packing on colour and fluffy brushes for blending.”
Some eyeshadow palettes come with an applicator sponge which is good for precise application. [PRO TIP] I like to dampen these to strengthen my eyeshadow pigment.
The formulas
Eyeshadows usually come in either cream, powders or liquid/gel form. A powder will give you a subtle yet buildable finish whilst something like a cream or liquid/gel is best for making more of a statement.
They also come in different finishes. “Adjust your eyeshadow based on where you’re going,” advises Gibson. “A subtle, matte look might be more appropriate for daytime or professional settings, while shimmer and glitter can be fun for evenings or special occasions.”
The Shades
Gibson says to choose your hues wisely. “Select colours that complement your eye colour and skin tone,” she explains. “Neutral shades are universally flattering but don’t be afraid to experiment with bold colours.”
[PRO TIP] For example, smokey greys and jewel-toned greens suit brown eyes while coppers and bronze tones make blue eyes stand out.
When using a palette, choosing three colours – light, medium and dark – is the advice for beginners.
Image – Newafrica/Adobe
2. Know your eye shape
Believe it or not, your eye shape has a lot to do with how to apply your eyeshadow. “Different eye shapes benefit from different eyeshadow applications,” explains Gibson.
“For example, if you have hooded eyes, you might want to apply the eyeshadow slightly above the crease so it’s visible when your eyes are open.” Stay tuned for more details on hooded eyes.
Rounded eyes lack width so applying eyeshadow on the inner and outer corners will give the illusion of a wider eye shape.
If you have almond-shaped eyes you will probably have a smaller lid but your eyes tend to stretch outwards which is super flattering (lucky you). So, accentuating this width with a darker shade on the outer edges of the lid and upper crease looks super effective.
Eyes that point downwards at the outer corners need a slight lift. So using your eyeshadow to create a cat eye or triangle shape going up and outwards would help create this illusion.
Image – Live That Glow
3. Prep your eye area
Before you begin applying eyeshadow, you should make sure your eye area is hydrated and clean for an easier application. Once it’s clean, either dab on some concealer to create an even base or apply a primer.
“An eyeshadow primer can make a significant difference,” Gibson says. “It helps to create a smooth canvas, prevents creasing and makes your eyeshadow more vibrant and long-lasting.”
My ultimate eye makeup essential is the Urban Decay Primer Potion (£19.50 on the Boots UK website/$27 on the Urban Decay US website) which glides onto the eyelid and allows eyeshadow to stay put all day. I couldn’t be without it (and if I was, my eyeshadow would last five minutes).
I have oily skin, so my eyelids can get quite greasy which is why my eyeshadow doesn’t last long, but this primer mattifies my lids and makes eyeshadow pigments stick.
Image – Urban Decay
4. Apply Your eyeshadow
- Apply your base colour
For your base, choose the lightest or most neutral one in your palette. “Using a flat brush, apply the lightest colour in a patting motion,” advises Wright.
“Build up the colour and gradually build the intensity,” says Gibson. “It’s much easier to add more product than to take it away.” You can either apply this shade just up to the crease of your eyelid for a natural finish or all the way up to the brow bone to create a more smokey effect.
You could blend it out a little too. “Start from the inner corner of your eye and blend outwards. This helps to create a natural, diffused look,” Gibson says.
Image – Live That Glow
- Use a medium shade in your crease
Next, create a 3D effect. “Using a medium, round, fluffy brush apply the medium colour in your palette only in the crease area of your eyelid,” says Wright.
PRO TIP: “Move the brush back and forth across your crease in a windshield wiper motion. This helps to distribute and blend the eyeshadow evenly,” Gibson explains.
On hooded eyes, the crease trick is slightly different. “Blend it slightly above the natural crease line,” says Wright.
Image – Live That Glow
- Use a dark shade to line and shape
“Using a smaller, tighter, round brush apply your darkest eyeshadow colour in the outer corner in a sideways ‘V’ shape, then blend in with your first brush to soften the look,” Wright says.
PRO TIP: For hooded eyes, “apply your darkest colour in the outward V shape, but also blend this colour well above the outer crease area to create that illusion of the eye receding back into the natural crease area,” she adds.
The key at this stage is to blend, blend, blend. “Use a clean, fluffy brush to blend the edges of your eyeshadow,” Gibson says. “Blending helps to create a seamless transition between colours and avoids harsh lines.”
Finally, she says to not forget your lower lash line. “Lightly applying eyeshadow on your lower lash line can balance the look,” she explains. “Just be sure not to go too heavy or dark as this can make your eyes look smaller.”
Image – Live That Glow
5. Apply your mascara
Next, coat your lashes in mascara. Mascara is a great way to tie up any loose ends with your eye makeup and it can really bring the look together.
PRO TIP: Apply one coat then apply a second one 30 seconds later while it’s still slightly damp – you don’t want to apply your second coat on top of dry mascara or it will go crusty.
My current favourite mascara to curl up my rather straight lashes is Max Factor 2000 Calorie Mascara (£9.99 on the Look Fantastic UK website/$13.80 on the Look Fantastic US website). There are no gimmicks with this mascara, it’s just a straightforward rounded brush that’s easy to use and doesn’t smudge. It’s just how a mascara should work!
Image – Live That Glow
Ashley Gibson’s top 3 eyeshadow tips
1. “Periodically step back and check the symmetry of your eyeshadow on both eyes, correcting unevenness as you go rather than at the end.”
2. “Use a light touch when applying and blending eyeshadow. Pressing too hard can lead to patchiness and uneven application.”
3. “If using the same brush for multiple colours, clean it between shades with a dry towel or tissue to avoid muddiness.”
The takeaway
Once you’ve got your kit sorted, you’re already halfway there. Decide which tools you most enjoy applying eyeshadow with, gather your favourite shades and textures and invest in a really good eyeshadow primer.
Next, pick out your beginners’ three colours – light, medium and dark – and study this article for where each of them should go.
Don’t panic if it goes wrong the first time, Gibson says practice makes perfect. “Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and styles,” she advises. “Playing around with your makeup is the best way to learn what works best for you.”
Meet the experts
Ashley Nichole Gibson is a licensed aesthetician and makeup artist who owns Paraposh, which provides on-site makeup services. Specialising in bridal makeup, her experience also extends to training and education for cosmetic brands, conducting master classes at Ulta, and working as a makeup artist at QVC for beauty brands.
Monina Wright is a licensed aesthetician and professional makeup artist in the Bay Area. She is the founder + CEO of Moderne Beauty & Esthetics where she works and mentors aspiring makeup artists while helping women achieve their natural glow through individualised skincare.
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