How to Master 6 Different Eyeliner Techniques for Every Eye Shape
Main Image – Rene de Haan/Stocksy
Did you know, eyeliner can play a big part in your finished eye makeup look, depending on where it’s positioned?
Whether you want to create the illusion of bigger eyes, you want your lashes to look longer or you want a natural finish but still want some decent definition, eyeliner can make it happen. Who knew it could create so many looks with just one simple tweak?
With tips from Andrew Grella, CEO and founder of Formen Makeup and Pilar De Mann, makeup artist and co-founder of Pilar BLLaC, here’s where to place your eyeliner to get the finish you’re after.
For bigger-looking eyes
DeMann says to aim high. “My go to application to make eyes appear larger is to line the upper, inner lash line, where the hair comes out of the skin (not the waterline) with a dark pencil in black, dark brown or charcoal,” she explains.
Then, “line the upper and lower water line with a pearl-coloured pencil as this has white as well as other luminescent colours that blend better with the whites of our eyes. Then lightly line the lower lash line with a dark pencil as this really makes eyes appear larger and looks beautiful. It can be done very lightly for a more natural look or built up for more drama.”
Just don’t apply dark liner in your waterline if you have small eyes. “I think it always makes eyes look smaller,” she adds.
Image – deniskomarov/Adobe
For wider-looking eyes
“Wider eyes need more makeup in the outer corners,” says DeMann. “Put eyeliner on the outer parts of your upper and lower lashes,” adds Grella. “A tiny wing should be extended a bit beyond the corners. This widens the eye shape sideways and makes it appear wider.”
To create the perfect wing, draw your desired shape in dots with your eyeliner as a guide, then join them up when you’re happy.
For longer-looking lashes
Yup, you can even make your lashes appear fuller and longer, with the help of your eyeliner! “Longer, fuller-looking lashes can be achieved by lining the lash line with a dark coloured pencil. It’s my favourite trick!” says DeMann. Mine too! And if I haven’t done it, I feel like my eye makeup isn’t complete.
“The black eyeliner is applied to the upper waterline which gives the illusion of longer lashes and enhances a fuller base for them,” Grella adds. “It also fills in empty spaces between individual hairs to create thicker lash lines.”
Image – deniskomarov/Adobe
For a sultry, smoky finish
For the perfect smokey eye, your eyeliner has the starring role. “Begin with an application of pencil or gel liner on your top lash line, then smudge out using a brush or cotton swab,” Grella explains.
“Smudge a little on your bottom lash and repeat. Finally, layer with matching eyeshadow to intensify the look. The smudgy lines create a sultry, smoky effect that is both dramatic and charming.”
For natural definition
Sometimes you just want to give your eyes definition without it looking like you’re wearing any makeup. “Look for a softer colour – dark brown is my favourite,” says DeMann. “Lightly line your upper, inner lash line and very lightly line your lowers just in the outer corners.”
Grella says to line, “without making wings or thick lines; just a thin line that accentuates your natural eye shape. This provides a subtle definition without looking overdone.” He also suggests grey as a good eyeliner colour for creating a natural finish.
Image – Deniskomarov/Adobe
For making hooded eyes stand out
“If you have hooded eyes you can apply eyeliner as close to the top lashes as possible,” says Grella. “This will make more room for the lid space while avoiding very thick lines that may reduce your eyelid size.”
He adds, “Avoid heavy lines if you have deep-set eyes or hooded ones because they might appear more sunken in than they are.”
The takeaway
So it’s easy to create all kinds of clever illusions, just with one simple eyeliner placement. But DeMann says there are no set laws when it comes to eyeliner and it really boils down to how you feel on the inside.
“I think there are no real “rules” of makeup and it’s essential to really know your face,” she says. “Makeup is confidence. If you love how your makeup looks, then you feel good and you present that to the world.”
Meet the experts
Andrew Grella is the CEO and founder of Formen Makeup.
LA-born Pilar DeMann is no stranger to Hollywood life. Her roles in the box have included makeup artist, producer and manager. Leaving her roots, Pilar moved East with her family and rekindled an old flame, makeup. Unlike most with her 30 years of experience, this makeup maven is shunning the celebrity circuit and sharing her expertise with real world people of all ages.
Get Glowing!
