Blackheads: What Are they (and How Do You Get Rid of Them)?
Main image – Sergefilimonov/Stocksy
If, like me, you had a sister who offered to pay you just to let her squeeze your blackheads as a teen, you’ll be familiar with what blackheads look like. If not (and I hope I’m in the minority with that one…) you may want to keep reading this article to find out exactly what you’re dealing with if you’ve noticed those tiny black dots on your skin.
Image – Dianevilladsen/Stocksy
For some, a few small pin-prick sized marks won’t cause too much distress, but if you experience a large number of blackheads, you may be wondering what exactly they are. What causes them? How do I get rid of them? And how do I prevent them in the first place?
Well, wonder no more, because dermatologists Dr Hannah Kopelman and Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed are here with their tips and advice on all of the above (and beyond). Prepare to learn everything you ever needed to know about blackheads and, hopefully, how to improve your skin in the process.
What are blackheads?
“Blackheads are clogged pores that have been exposed to air, causing the surface of the clogged pore to oxidise and turn dark,” explains Dr Kopelman. “You’ll most often find them on the nose, chin, and sometimes the back, but they can pop up anywhere.”
What causes blackheads?
It might not be a surprise to learn that oil is the main culprit. “Blackheads mostly occur because skin makes too much oil (named sebum) that mixes with dead skin cells,” explains Dr Hamed.
There are certain things that boost sebum production, “such as hormone changes (like in puberty), some medicines, and even certain skincare items that might block pores. Bacteria can also get in there, making things worse,” he says.
Image – Irina/adobe
To prevent your skincare products blocking your pores, look for wording like “non-comedogenic” (non pore-blocking) on the packaging.
How can you tell the difference between blackheads and sebaceous filaments?
Hang on, what even is a sebaceous filament? “These are very small and natural things in your pores that help to move oil to the skin’s top layer,” explains Dr Hamed.
“They might appear like blackheads but often they are softer and lighter in colour.”
“They’re usually greyish and smaller, and they don’t need to be ‘treated’ in the same way blackheads do,” explains Dr Kopelman. “Blackheads look darker because they are blocked and exposed to air, which causes oxidation,” says Dr Hamed.
How do you get rid of blackheads?
The answer you’ve been waiting for. And luckily, according to Dr Hamed, there are plenty of things you can try to eliminate those little black dots. Phew. He lists them below.
Over-the-counter (OTC) ingredients
- Salicylic Acid: This ingredient helps to dissolve the oil and dead skin in your pores. It is very good for maintaining clean skin.
- Sulphur: This is another ingredient that can help reduce oil and fight bacteria.
- Exfoliation: Doing exfoliation on your skin regularly can take away dead skin cells, which stops them from blocking your pores. You have choices like scrubs or chemical exfoliants (such as acids) to do this task.
Prescription ingredients
- Tretinoin: This product is much stronger and aids your skin in getting rid of dead cells while keeping your pores clean. You must get a prescription from a dermatologist to use it.
Professional treatments
- Extraction facials: These are done by professionals who safely remove blackheads from your skin.
- Chemical peels: Peels use acids to exfoliate your skin in a deeper way, helping to make clogged pores clean.
- Microdermabrasion: This is a more sophisticated method to describe the process where they scrub off the top layer of your skin. It helps make your skin feel smoother and stops blackheads from forming.
Is it ever OK to squeeze your blackheads?
To squeeze or not to squeeze? Hmm. Similar to drinking alcohol and basking in the sunshine, although satisfying at the time, it can be damaging to your skin. “I don’t recommend squeezing blackheads because it can lead to scarring or infection,” warns Dr Kopelman.
Image – Lightfieldstudios/Adobe
“If you must, I always suggest using a comedone extractor rather than your fingers to reduce the risk of damage,” she suggests. Dr Hamed adds, “it’s better to let a professional handle it.” Noted (and shared with sister).
Are pore strips a good idea?
“These strips pull out some of the blackheads, but they do not prevent them from reappearing later on, plus they can irritate your skin if you use them too much,” warns Dr Hamed.
“I prefer products that focus on reducing the overall clogging of the pores rather than just removing the surface debris,” adds Dr Kopelman.
How do you prevent blackheads?
Regular exfoliation and keeping your pores clean are key. “Exfoliate your skin regularly to remove dead skin cells and use non-comedogenic products, which means they won’t clog your pores,” says Dr Hamed.
“Consider using products with salicylic acid or retinoids to keep your skin clear, eat a balanced diet and drink plenty of water.”
The takeaway
Blackheads are pores, blocked up with oil and dead skin cells. The key to preventing them and keeping on top of them are regular exfoliation and cleansing, using ingredients like salicylic acid or retinoids.
Try not to squeeze yours or use a pore strip, no matter how tempting. Instead, go for one of Dr Hamed’s treatment suggestions like an extraction facial or prescription ingredient like tretinoin. “If you have blackheads that do not go away or other skin issues, it is a good idea to see a dermatologist,” he says. “They can give advice just for your needs.”
Meet the experts
Dr Hannah Kopelman is a dermatologist and has completed two clinical fellowships in dermatology – hair loss from Columbia University and skin cancer from Boston University. She is also extremely active on Youtube, Instagram, Tiktok and has a weekly dermatology podcast called Derm Club.
Dr. Hamdan Abdullah Hamed, MBChB, is a Board-Certified Dermatologist and Trichologist based in the UAE and co-founder of Power Your Curls.
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