PDRN Skincare Has Some Impressive Claims… But There’s One Big Question No One Can Ignore
Main image – Bruno Ngarukiye
If you’re a Korean skincare addict, chances are your algorithm is full to bursting with news of PDRN, the K-beauty ingredient that’s even landed a Kendall Jenner endorsement. But for those who aren’t familiar, PDRN is an acronym for polydeoxyribonucleotide, a skincare ingredient that has become widely known as, er, ‘salmon sperm’.
I know. It’s a massive elephant in the room. I’ll get onto it later.
But while this not-completely-accurate narrative is probably (definitely) part of the reason why everyone is talking about it, all this controversy is perhaps detracting from what PDRN actually is and whether it’s really as beneficial to the skin as some brands are claiming.
Here, I ask physician Dr Bahar Malekzadeh and cosmetic chemist Julie Pefferman to separate the science from the hype and explain whether PDRN skincare is actually worth spending your hard-earned pennies on.
What actually is PDRN?
First things first, let’s get the elephant firmly out of the room (and preferably lock the door). PDRN is not exclusively salmon sperm. It is, however, a skincare ingredient made from tiny fragments of DNA, traditionally taken from the sperm of a salmon or trout. (Hmm. Perhaps the key was lost.)
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
So how on earth did it arrive in skincare in the first place?
It was found via medical research to be beneficial for wound healing and tissue repair then, according to Pefferman, “Korean consumers were introduced to polynucleotide injections through derm and aesthetic clinics, and skin care brands brought a lower-cost at-home version of that story to market.”
Dr Malekzadeh continues, “PDRN sits at the intersection of several trends. A focus on skin quality over simply treating wrinkles, interest in barrier repair, and demand for ingredients that feel more regenerative than cosmetic.”
There are two ways of using PDRN: injectable polynucleotides (in clinic) and topical PDRN (applied at home). “An injectable is a sterile medical product placed directly into the skin, while a serum/cosmetic product has to get through the skin barrier topically first,” explains Pefferman.
And what is it supposed to do for your skin?
While brands are positioning PDRN in the anti-ageing, firming, brightening and pore-refining camp, it’s crucial with such a new ingredient to seek an unbiased view.
Topically, Dr Malekzadeh says it helps to support the skin. “There is reasonable biological rationale and early research suggesting benefits for hydration, soothing irritation, and supporting repair,” he explains.
Pefferman agrees, but it’s early days.
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
“There are some promising early studies, including newer research showing improvements in skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle appearance,” she says. “However, the human studies are still relatively small and short-term, and we don’t yet have enough evidence to generalise those findings to the many PDRN products now on the market.”
But can PDRN molecules penetrate the skin?
It’s the million-dollar question because you might say there’s a bit of a problem here: “PDRN is a large molecule, and the outer layer of the skin is designed to keep large molecules out,” says Dr Malekzadeh. Right.
“DNA fragments are not particularly well suited for passive penetration through intact skin,” adds Pefferman. “They’re hydrophilic, negatively charged, and generally much larger than the molecules that readily pass through the stratum corneum.”
Despite this, there have been signs of penetration with certain PDRN materials. “Newer research has begun demonstrating limited penetration into superficial living skin layers with certain PDRN materials,” she says.
“That’s encouraging but detecting a signal in the upper epidermis is not the same as proving that an effective amount of intact PDRN reaches the dermis.”
And there lies the difference between a needle and a topical product. So can PDRN actually penetrate the skin well enough to deliver the benefits brands are claiming? The jury’s out.
So, is PDRN skincare worth trying?
Pefferman makes an interesting point about other ingredients in PDRN products and how much they might contribute to the results.
“When someone notices that a PDRN serum makes their skin feel more hydrated or comfortable, ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol, just to name a few, may be responsible for much of the improvement,” she says.
But short of doing a vigorous process of elimination, it’s hard to tell what’s working and what isn’t.
If you’re intent on trying PDRN, do so if you have typically dry or dehydrated skin, you want to support your skin barrier or you’re simply in the market to try something new because nothing else seems to be working.
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
The research is young but it is evolving. And while PDRN is being promoted for its focus on recovery, it’s still worth checking the full formula and patch testing first if you have sensitive skin.
Dr Malekzadeh advises looking for brands that “clearly list the ingredient (PDRN, sodium DNA, or polydeoxyribonucleotide) and disclose its source, concentration, and fragment size.”
The takeaway
So, does PDRN deserve the hype? If it was exclusively ‘salmon sperm’, as some like to refer to it, then absolutely, because there’s your headline. But what about the more important issue of what it can actually do for the skin?
Studies suggest that PDRN can have a positive impact on supporting the skin, however it’s still very early days. So much so that the experts are questioning whether these results are in fact coming from other ingredients.
So, would I spend my money on PDRN skincare? Personally, I’m just not sure. Until we know more about whether PDRN can penetrate the skin well enough to deliver the benefits brands are claiming, I think I would wait a little longer for the science to catch up.
Meet the experts
Dr Bahar Malekzadeh is a physician and Co-Owner and CEO of The Well Westlake.
Julie Pefferman is a cosmetic chemist at COSMETA and Independent Formulation Studio.
