By Philippa Pearne

Published: 14th September 2025 9:00 am

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Do You Really Need This Derm-Approved Scalp Routine I Keep Seeing on My FYP?

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Main image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy

There has been quite a buzz coming from dermatologists all over the world recently about hacks to boost thinning hair. In fact, my whole FYP currently seems to be awash with the same multi-step scalp routine that promises to offer your thickest, healthiest hair ever.

But are these complex routines- praised by the likes of respected derms Dr Aamna Adel and and Dr Joyce Park– overkill, or do they really work?

Here, we cover each step from trying out red LED light and dermarolling, to applying caffeine products on the scalp. With expert comments from board certified dermatologist and hair loss specialist, Dr Hannah Kopelman, trichologists Natasha Brown and Kate Holden, and hair transplant surgeon, Dr Tetiana Mamontova, we ask, ‘can this routine really help your thinning hair?’.

Keep scrolling to find out!

The scalp routine I keep seeing on socials

If you’re a regular on social media, you may recognise the steps below. “This routine that’s been trending on TikTok and across social media combines multiple steps aimed at promoting scalp health and hair regrowth,” says Dr Kopelman. So what does each one actually do?

Image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy

Red LED light: “This is intended to stimulate the hair follicle through increased circulation and reduced inflammation,” Dr Kopelman explains. Brown adds, “it’s an effective, non-invasive option for early to moderate hair thinning, not over-kill.”

Tretinoin:

“Commonly used on the face, this is sometimes applied to the scalp to enhance cellular turnover and improve the absorption of other topical agents like minoxidil,” Dr Kopelman says. But how? “By helping with the dilation and formation of blood vessels in the area to supply more nutrients to the hair follicles,” explains Dr Mamontova.

Minoxidil:

And speaking of Minoxidil. “This is a vasodilator which means that it enhances the existing blood vessels so that they can deliver more nutrients to the follicles in the areas where minoxidil is applied,” she adds. “It remains a cornerstone of hair loss treatment – it’s FDA-approved and works by prolonging the growth phase of the hair cycle,” says Dr Kopelman.

Dermarolling:

You’ve most likely heard about this being done on the face, but on the scalp? “Microneedling, or dermarolling, creates tiny channels in the skin that may enhance the delivery of topical treatments and activate growth pathways via controlled injury,” Dr Kopelman says. “It boosts collagen, increases blood flow, and helps treatments absorb better,” adds Brown.

Caffeine serums:

Serums with caffeine, “are marketed to stimulate the follicle and potentially counteract DHT [dihydrotestosterone – the hormone responsible for hair loss], although evidence is still emerging,” Dr Kopelman warns. Brown continues, “they’re not overkill and can be a helpful addition to hair care routines, though results vary.”

Ingredients like peptides and saw palmetto are also regularly recommended by derms to help slow hair loss. And at Live That Glow HQ, we’ve definitely noticed less shedding after using Phillip Kingsley’s Density Preserving Scalp Drops (£52 from Cult Beauty UK /$72 from Phillip Kingsley US), which contains both ingredients.

Nizoral shampoo:

Yes, that unglamorous-looking anti-dandruff shampoo could have some surprising benefits, according to the experts. “It contains ketoconazole, an antifungal that also has anti-inflammatory and mild anti-androgen effects – helpful for dandruff and possibly androgenetic alopecia,” explains Dr Kopelman.

Is this routine overkill or can it really work?

“It depends on the individual, but in general, this regimen isn’t necessarily overkill if done thoughtfully and consistently,” Dr Kopelman says. “Hair loss can be complex and multifactorial, and targeting it from multiple angles – circulation, inflammation, hormonal effects, and follicle stimulation – can be an effective approach.”

Holden agrees. “Using several complementary treatments together, sometimes called “stacking”, can often achieve better results than relying on one alone.”

But Dr Kopelman warns to do your research first. “Throwing all of these treatments at your scalp without understanding your specific diagnosis or skin sensitivity can backfire, especially with potential irritation from tretinoin or overuse of microneedling,” she adds. “So, while the routine has merit, it’s not one-size-fits-all.”

Image – Angelarober/Stocksy

And Holden agrees. “It’s best not to self-diagnose or self-treat as you may end up causing more harm than good, if you can’t access a dermatologist or trichologist then speaking to your family doctor for guidance is the best option.”

Don’t know where to start with approaching the topic with your derm or GP? Ask about minoxidil and dermarolling first, says Dr Mamontova.

“Minoxidil and dermarolling have strong research. Minoxidil is widely used by patients to help with hair growth and dermarolling has a lot of potential as long as the correct dermaroller is used.”

“The other methods may have varying results on people so you should consider using minoxidil and dermarolling as a baseline and then test the other methods by adding them into your hair routine when possible,” she adds.

What types of hair loss can it work for?

It’s important to remember that despite wishful thinking, “nothing from the above list will grow new hair where hair doesn’t exist,” warns Mamontova. “So, people that are bald should avoid it.”

Similarly, “Hair regrowth depends very much on the underlying cause of the hair loss and the stage at which intervention begins,” says Holden.

“If the loss is due to temporary factors such as stress, illness, nutritional deficiencies, or certain medications, hair often has the potential to regrow once the trigger is removed or treated.”

Image – Juno/Stocksy

How quickly you treat hair loss will have an impact too, she explains. “Once hair follicles have been inactive for a long time or replaced by scar tissue – as in advanced pattern hair loss or scarring alopecias – the chances of natural regrowth are very low.”

And who should avoid it?

According to Brown, red LED light therapy should be avoided by, “those with photosensitive disorders or on photosensitizing medications.” These include conditions like, “lupus, porphyria the type that affects the skin, or certain types of Photoallergic Contact Dermatitis (a type of eczema), or those taking photosensitizing medications like specific antibiotics or acne treatment.”

Instead, ideal candidates are, “individuals with early-stage hair loss; contraindicated for epilepsy and photosensitive conditions,” she adds.

With tretinoin, “it’s best for those with early hair thinning,” she says. “Avoid if you have sensitive skin, scalp inflammation or are pregnant/breastfeeding.” Dr Kopelman adds, “Tretinoin has some supportive data, but it’s not without its risks – it can easily irritate the scalp, especially if you’re also microneedling or using other active ingredients.”

Minoxidil is super strong too so, “avoid use if allergic or you have scalp irritation and it’s also not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women,” Brown says. “It’s best suited for adults experiencing early to moderate hair loss.”

She has some caveats for how useful it is for every situation too; “If you stop using it, any progress you’ve made usually reverses and hair loss often resumes quickly,” she explains. “Consistency is key but even then, results can be limited.”

Dr Kopelman feels a combination works best. “In my practice, I consistently see results with minoxidil, Nizoral shampoo, red light therapy, and microneedling – particularly when they’re used in combination with a tailored plan and under guidance,” she says.

Image – Bratco/Stocksy

As for dermarolling, “this is best for early to moderate thinning,” she says. “Avoid if you have scalp infections or sensitive skin.” And Brown says it’s a similar story for caffeine products. “Best for early stage thinning but avoid them if you have scalp sensitivities or allergies to product ingredients.”

Dr Kopelman says that even though these are the most comfortable method, you shouldn’t rely solely on them. “Caffeine-based products are unlikely to hurt, but they shouldn’t be your main strategy since the data behind them is limited.”

Finally, for Nizoral shampoo, “avoid if allergic to ketoconazole or if you have a very sensitive scalp,” Brown says. However, it can work well for “people with dandruff-related hair thinning or scalp inflammation.”

What order should you do the routine in?

If you’re going to give this viral scalp care routine a go, make sure you do it in the right order. “Timing and order do matter for both safety and efficacy,” says Dr Kopelman.

“I typically recommend shampooing with Nizoral in the shower, then allowing the scalp to fully dry,” she adds. Then, both on days when you shampoo and when you don’t, “apply caffeine scalp products daily to stimulate follicles,” says Brown.

Next, “on nights when tretinoin is used, I advise applying it before bed and skipping other topicals,” Dr Kopelman says.

Image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy

“On alternate nights, minoxidil can be applied either in the morning or evening. Microneedling should be done only once or twice per week and should always precede any application of minoxidil – give the skin time to calm before layering. Red light therapy can be done after product application, ideally when the scalp is clean and dry.”

How much time should you leave between steps? “I usually advise waiting at least 30 minutes after microneedling before applying minoxidil,” says Holden.

“This helps reduce the risk of irritation, as applying the solution immediately onto freshly microneedled skin can increase absorption too much and potentially lead to side effects.”

And for microneedling and LED light? “Again, a gap of around 30 minutes is a good rule of thumb. This prevents the light therapy from inadvertently dispersing or reducing the effectiveness of the topical treatment if it hasn’t had time to absorb.

“Doing the LED session first, then waiting before applying the solution, usually works best for minimising interference and maximising benefit,” says Holden.

How long until you see results, and how long to do it for

Dr Kopelman says to be patient. Because, let’s face it, hair grows slowly.

“Most people begin to see early signs of improvement – such as reduced shedding or subtle thickening – after about three months, but real visible results typically take six months or longer,” she explains.

“It’s very common for patients to think nothing is happening early on, only to notice significant changes when they compare progress photos at the one-year mark.”

Brown gives us her suggested timeline:

Red LED light therapy: Visible improvement within 3 to 6 months. Sustained over at least 6 months for best results.
Tretinoin: Results after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use (typically for several months – long term depends on tolerance).
Minoxidil: Visible results typically after 3 to 6 months of consistent use. If treatment stops, hair shedding often resumes within a few months.
Dermarolling: Results in 3 to 6 months when used once a week or every two weeks, for at least 6 months.
Nizoral shampoo: Results seen in 6 to 8 weeks with consistent use, typically a few times a week, alternating with a regular shampoo.
Caffeine products: Results appear after 3 to 6 months – use daily or several times a week, consistently long term for maintenance and ongoing support.

The takeaway

So, minoxidil is clinically proven to regrow hair but if you stop using it, your positive results could be undone quickly. Red LED light boosts the follicles and also complements other treatments – bonus! Nizoral is great for treating inflammation and shedding linked to dandruff, whilst tretinoin also complements the absorption of other treatments although it can lead to irritation.

Dermarolling also supports other products when done gently and every so often and caffeine products can be effective for early signs of hair loss (but aren’t backed by very much evidence).

“Each works best when used strategically and not excessively,” Brown says. And she adds that the routine also relies on internal health too. “Without addressing nutritional and mineral deficiencies, topical treatments are significantly less effective.”

So is this routine overkill? The majority say no as long as it’s done properly. “This routine combines scalp health, stimulation, and treatment absorption for optimal results,” says Brown.

“When carefully combined, these treatments complement each other to target hair loss from multiple angles. The secret is consistency and customizing the routine to your scalp’s needs done right – it’s far from overkill.”