The Scalp Care Boom Has a Problem: Your Hair Might Be Paying the Price
Main image – Juno/Stocksy
For years us beauty fans have had it drilled into us that a maintaining a healthy scalp results in super healthy locks. And it’s true – medically looking after our scalp does pay off when it comes to the long-term condition and growth of our hair.
“If you ignore the scalp, the hair will always struggle,” explains Adam Reed, hairstylist and founder of Arkive by Adam Reed. “People often confuse the two because we see hair, not scalp. We style what’s visible and forget what’s growing it. But healthy hair always starts at the root, literally.”
But, at what point does scalp health advice become at odds with what’s actually good for our hair, and when does it actually start working against it?
For example, we’re often told that frequent washing is good for our scalps, but in reality most of know that cleansing so frequently can dry out our actual hair in the process.
Image – Katarinaradovic/Stocksy
It’s time we found a balance between what’s good for the scalp whilst not compromising on the look and condition of the hair in real time.
Here, we ask Reed and other top experts how to find a healthy middle ground between the two.
The arguments for frequent washing
Brand president and lead trichologist at Philip Kingsley, Anabel Kingsley says that not washing your scalp frequently enough can negatively affect your scalp.
“Every hair follicle on your head has an oil gland that produces sebum. If you don’t wash your hair often enough, it can lead to a build-up of dirt, dead skin cells, oil and hair products making your hair greasier. Your hair and scalp need to be clean and healthy to produce optimal hair growth, and this also helps to prevent scalp issues from occurring.”
So, as far as scalp health goes, how often should we be washing our hair?
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
“Typically, washing the scalp every two to three days is a good general rule, or sooner if it becomes greasy, oily or uncomfortable. The aim is to remove excess sebum, sweat, dead skin cells and environmental debris that can accumulate on the scalp,” Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist says.
But, he explains, “everyone’s scalp is different and the ideal washing frequency depends on factors such as scalp oiliness, hair type, activity levels and product use.
“The key is to pay attention to your scalp and look for signs such as itch, flaking or discomfort, and adjust your routine accordingly.”
Just bear in mind too that teenagers and those with dandruff may find they need to wash their hair slightly more frequently than others too.
And why that can cause problems for our hair
So, you’ve worked out your scalp care. But Reed says the scalp and hair are really two different entities. “In simple terms, your scalp is living tissue and your hair is fabric,” he explains. “One is skin that needs care and balance; the other is fibre that needs protection and maintenance.”
In short, they need different things so what works well for the scalp might not work best for your strands.
For example, “Frequent washing can strip away these protective oils and gradually lift and damage the cuticles, which leads to breakage,” explains hair stylist Maria Sotiriou.
Meanwhile, using heavier hair styling products directly on our scalps can cause problems too, according to Dr Phillips. “One example is the use of heavier oils and conditioning treatments on the scalp. These products can be very beneficial for the hair lengths, helping to smooth the cuticle, reduce breakage and improve shine.
Image – Annatabakova/Stocksy
“However, when applied directly to the scalp, they can contribute to build up, trap dead skin cells and, in some people, lead to irritation or flaking.”
Equally, even hair-helpers like dry shampoo can cause problems if over-used. “Dry shampoo can cause issues if it’s allowed to build up on the scalp. However, when it’s used correctly and properly cleansed out, it can be a great addition for those who need it,” explains Diamond Key Educator for KEVIN.MURPHY, Holly Grindley.
So should we be using different routines for our the scalp and lengths? “Yes, absolutely,” says Reed. “The scalp needs ingredients that support skin health and balance. The lengths need nourishment, strength and protection. Treat them as two separate zones.”
So what’s the right balance?
To get the best of both worlds, Kingsley says you need a consistent routine. She still recommends shampooing frequently but to try a different technique. “Focus on your scalp, not your strands, when you shampoo,” she says.
“Don’t rub your hair or pile it on top of your head. There is no need to apply shampoo directly to your mid-length and ends. Instead, gently squeeze suds throughout your lengths and rinse very well.”
Next, “apply a post shampoo rinse-off conditioner to your hair after shampooing,” she advises. Then conditioner. “Conditioners detangle, reduce frizz and static and impart a light protective film over your hair.”
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
Kingsley also recommends applying a hair mask once to twice a week. “Use a pre-shampoo deep conditioning treatment and if you have processed or damaged hair, also use a bond repair treatment, alternating between the two,” she says.
When it comes to heat styling, “always use a heat protective product and apply it to all areas where heat will be placed. High heat damages the cuticle (the hair’s outer protective layer) and can also compromise the bonds and proteins that hold it together.”
In the long term though, Dr Phillips recommends focusing on the building blocks that support scalp health since this will have an impact on the health of the hair that comes through.
“Supporting scalp health and optimising your general health through good nutrition and lifestyle habits will have the greatest impact on hair quality and growth,” he explains.
“A balanced diet containing adequate protein, iron, zinc and vitamins supports normal hair production. Staying well hydrated and managing stress are also important, as physiological stress can contribute to increased shedding.”
And don’t forget your SPF, he warns. “It is also sensible to protect the scalp from excessive sun exposure, particularly in areas where the hair is thinning or the scalp is more exposed.”
And how to tailor things for your own hair type
To keep the balance between your hair and scalp healthy just right, you’ll want to tailor things according to your hair type.
“For example those with fine hair actually have many more hairs per cm on their head than any other hair texture and every hair follicle has an oil gland attached to it which is why this hair texture gets oily and limp quickly.
“For fine hair I recommend daily shampooing but for someone with coarser or coiled hair that doesn’t get oily as quickly, every 2-3 days is sufficient.”
For conditioner, “if you have fine or thin hair, only use a small amount and focus application on your mid-lengths and ends. For coarser or coiled hair, apply liberally and further up (but not to your scalp).”
And if your scalp needs additional TLC, treat it separately, says Kinglsey. “To help counteract irritated scalps, apply a hydrating serum to your scalp, such as the Philip Kingsley Overnight Scalp Balancing Serum (£31 from Philip Kingsley UK /$43 from Philip Kingsley US), which hydrates and gently exfoliates your scalp, and also helps to regulate oil production.”
The takeaway
Scalp care is vital for your hair’s end game but, as we have learned, the two actually (and rather confusingly) need very different things. You can meet in the middle with help from Kingsley’s routine – just remember to stay consistent.
Adapt your wash frequency around your hair type and remember to use her washing technique if you’re shampooing particularly frequently so that you’re focussing more on your scalp than your hair lengths.
The most important thing is keeping your scalp free of dirt, oil and product build-up so that your hair has the best chance of growing healthily but bear in mind that your hair’s health depends on how you wash it as well as the products you use to support it.
Meet the experts
Adam Reed is a celebrity hairstylist who has spent 20 years shaping iconic looks, including styling Madonna.
Anabel Kingsley is lead trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley.
Dr Derrick Phillips is a leading consultant dermatologist based in London, practising at OneWelbeck and Skin55 Dermatology.
Maria Sotiriou is a London-based hairstylist with over 35 years of industry experience and a reputation for taming even the most difficult-to-manage hair.
Holly Grindley is a hair stylist and brand educator for KEVIN.MURPHY.
Get Glowing!
