The Tide is Turning on Microneedling From Home – So Should You Really Try it?
Main image – Juliememe/Stocksy
Loved by influencers, derms and beauty addicts, microneedling has become hugely popular for rejuvenating the skin, boosting collagen, improving texture and fading pigmentation. Most commonly seen in an in-office environment, microneedling uses tiny needles to puncture the skin and trigger its natural healing process.
And while it might seem like yet another skincare trend, microneedling has actually been around for years and is now the norm in many skincare clinics.
Anyone who’s spent more than 10 minutes on Amazon in the last two years though will have seen that these spiky devices are now being sold in their thousands for at home use – leading many experts to warn of the potential risks of trying this trend from home.
That seems to me to make sense; we are, after all, talking about using needles in untrained hands. What has surprised me though is that recently I’ve been seeing more and more derms recommend dermarollers or dermstamp use from home.
Image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy
And not just on the skin either; on the scalp too, to boost hair growth (albeit with the home version using shorter needles and showing more gradual results).
Other experts, on the other hand, are still advising leaving it to the professionals.
Which sort of begs the question, is at-home microneedling actually safe? And more than that, can it actually help your skin or scalp?
I’ve turned to three of the experts I most trust with this question, dermatologist and hair loss expert, Dr Hannah Kopelman, and dermatologists Professor Firas Al-Niaimi and Dr Sina Ghadiri.
It’s a battle between going pro or DIY – which side will come out on top?
What exactly is microneedling?
Firstly though, let’s get into the specifics of this trend. Also known as dermarolling, dermastamping, skin needling or- professionally- as collagen induction therapy, microneedling is, despite how it sounds, a minimally invasive skin procedure.
Available from home as either roller-type devices or stamp-style implements, these microneedling devices can be found in varying needle lengths (normally from 0.25 mm to 2 mm), depending on what issues and body parts you’re looking to treat. As our experts point out though, longer needles don’t necessarily = better.
But how do these teeny needles help us in the first place? “Essentially, it is a mechanical type of treatment where it punctures the skin through a controlled way of injury in a fast motion using very thin needles, and that creates trauma, which leads to wound healing,” explains Professor Al-Niaimi.
Image – Adobe
Does it hurt? “At home, it’s usually just a prickly or scratchy feeling — definitely tolerable for most people, though the sensation can vary depending on how much pressure someone is using,” explains Dr Kopelman.
“When I do microneedling in the office, I use deeper needles, so it would absolutely be uncomfortable without numbing cream. But once patients are numbed, they usually describe it as pressure or a buzzing vibration more than pain. The main difference is that professional treatments can reach the collagen-stimulating depths that home tools can’t – but we also make the experience as comfortable as possible.”
What are the benefits?
There are more than you’d probably realise. “Microneedling improves skin texture, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, and has utility in improving the appearance of prominent hypertrophic and keloid scars on the body,” says Dr Ghadiri.
And on the scalp? “It can stimulate hair growth by increasing blood flow and releasing growth factors, helping to contribute to regrowth in some hair disorders,” he explains.
“Furthermore, the procedure can also help any active products used simultaneously to reach deeper into the dermal layer of the skin, potentially enhancing their efficacy.” For example, it can be particularly beneficial for boosting hair growth when done in conjunction with using Minoxidil.
Why some experts don’t recommend at-home microneedling
You mean apart from the DIY needle part? Professor Al-Niaimi thinks it’s because of confusion over needle length and potential injury.
“First of all, there is the issue of the depth – so, home use should not exceed a maximum of 0.5 millimetre in the skin, because then it requires anaesthesia and then there might be issues with some bleeding and wound healing, which patients may not necessarily be able to expertly treat,” he warns.
Like we said, bigger definitely does not necessarily mean better when it comes to needle length.
Dr Ghadiri agrees about needle length issues and adds, “poor hygiene and technique errors in an uncontrolled home setting which can cause infections, skin damage, or worsening skin conditions,” he says.
“Professional treatments ensure more aseptic environments and more tailored efficacious protocols.”
Image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy
So is it safe to do from home?
Dr Ghadiri says it can be. “Home microneedling can potentially be safe if done with appropriate tools (usually shorter needles designed appropriately to be used with minimal risk of injury), proper hygiene, and correct technique,” he warns.
“However, it should be approached with caution and ideally after discussion with a practitioner evaluating individual safety requirements.”
Dr Kopelman says she gets this question a lot from patients, “especially now that microneedling has become a social media favourite,” she explains. So how does she answer them?
“My honest take is that microneedling at home can be safe — but it really depends on how it’s being done. For facial skin, I think light at-home devices with short needles can give some benefits when used gently and hygienically. But I’ve also seen people overdo it or use tools that aren’t properly sanitised, and that’s where you can run into issues like irritation, breakouts, or even infection.” Professor Al-Niaimi simply adds, “home use is a bit controversial.”
And what about for the scalp? “It’s definitely a trend I’ve been watching closely,” Dr Kopelman says. I think there’s potential benefit in boosting circulation and helping serums absorb, but the scalp is also more prone to inflammation, and people don’t always realise how sensitive it can be. I always tell my patients — just because it’s available online doesn’t mean it’s risk-free.”
6 tips to safely microneedle from home
If you are thinking of giving it a go then, it’s worth bearing in mind some important safety points. Here are the biggest tips our experts had.
1. Choose hygiene:
“Consider disposable devices, which are a single use only, so that one can ensure the sterility,” Professor Al-Niaimi advises. “I do not recommend using the same microneedle again for the risk of infection.”
2. Go for the right needle length:
“There are some dermaroll or stamp needling devices available for home use, which go to a depth of anywhere from 0.2 to 0.3 and in some countries also 0.5 millimetres available,” explains Professor Al-Niaimi.
3. Choose a safe tool:
“In my view, one of the safer tools would be a manual one, which is gently ‘stamped’ along the face,” says Dr Ghadiri.
“This avoids any dragging/pulling or complications from poor technique associated with motorised home microneedlers.” Dr Kopelman says it’s essential to get the right tool for the job. “If someone wants to treat scalp thinning, I’ll guide them toward a tool that’s gentle enough for the scalp but still creates enough stimulation,” she says.
“For pigmentation or uneven texture on the face, I lean toward shallower rollers or stamps that can enhance the effect of brightening serums without causing too much trauma. When it comes to fine lines, I think slightly longer needles — still in the safe home-use range — can help, but only when someone’s skin is healthy, not inflamed, and they’re spacing treatments appropriately. I’m a big believer in moderation here — more isn’t always better.”
4. Wash your face first:
“It is important to cleanse your skin thoroughly before and to use gentle, even pressure,” Dr Ghadiri adds.
5. Don’t overdo it:
“A rule of thumb for safety would be every 1-2 weeks, depending on response, allowing your skin to heal fully between sessions,” Dr Ghadiri advises. Professor Al-Niaimi adds, “occasionally, there might be an area of some scarring where I might ask the patient to do it a little bit more frequently, maybe once a week.”
6. Combine ingredients sensibly:
A recovery serum is ideal, post treatment. “There are a number of recovery serums, which can be used post treatment, depending on the type of treatment,” says Professor Al-Niaimi.
“Sometimes there might be certain active ingredients that can be used, such as exosomes for example, or bio stimulators, although these are typically done in a clinic. Therefore, for home use, it will often be a form of a recovery serum, ideally containing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid.”
When to avoid microneedling from home
Dr Ghadiri says there are a few skin conditions you should be weary of when it comes to home microneedling.
“Avoid if you have conditions like active acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea flare-ups, keloid scarring tendency, open wounds or marked post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” he warns. “In untrained hands and without proper evaluation, it can worsen these conditions. Also, those on blood thinners or with compromised immunity should not attempt it without medical advice.”
Image – Annatabakova/Stocksy
And which ingredients should you definitely not combine home microneedling with? “Retinoids, exfoliating acids (like AHAs/BHAs), benzoyl peroxide, or vitamin C immediately before or after treatment, as they can cause excessive irritation or damage on compromised skin,” Dr Ghadiri says.
“Furthermore, it is important to say that some actives like topical retinoids have not been manufactured to be used with a microneedling device, from a perspective of irritation and safety, so manufacturer input is also very much recommended.”
For the scalp, Dr Kopelman always reminds her patients that microneedling temporarily opens up the skin barrier, “so anything you apply right after can penetrate much more deeply,” she says.
“That means products that are normally fine on the scalp – like minoxidil or essential oils – can suddenly cause burning, redness, or irritation if applied too soon.” So what does she suggest? “Personally, I recommend waiting at least 24 hours after microneedling before using any strong actives,” she explains.
“Right after the procedure, I stick with calming, sterile solutions to let the scalp recover. I’ve seen too many people try to combine everything at once and end up with setbacks, so I always say give your scalp a little grace period.”
The takeaway
The general consensus amongst our experts is, although controversial, microneedling can be safe to do at home, as long as you put the right precautions in place. Needle length is a big issue for them – do not choose one that exceeds more than 0.5mm – and make sure everything from your device to your skin is clean before you start to avoid infection.
Proceed with caution then if you do decide to give it a go. Read the instructions thoroughly and don’t overdo home microneedling – once every one to two weeks is plenty.
Consider which ingredients you are using straight before or after at-home microneedling (for example, retinol, vitamin C, AHAs and BHAs are big no nos), study which skin conditions microneedling puts at risk and if you’re microneedling your scalp, give it a break afterwards to let your skin heal.
Meet the experts
Professor Firas Al-Niaimi is a Consultant and Dermatologist
Dr Sina Ghadiri is Consultant Dermatologist and Founder of Sinaesthetics
Dr. Hannah Kopelman is dermatologist and hair loss expert at Kopelman Hair Restoration
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