Everything You Need to Know About Dermaplaning (Safely) from Home
Main image – Audshule/Stocksy
If your skincare products aren’t quite cutting it and you’re looking to smooth out your complexion whilst adding a boost of radiance, then you might want to consider dermaplaning.
It involves using a safe blade to stroke sections of your skin to create a more even surface. And luckily, it’s not as scary as it sounds.
But while dermaplaning is normally performed by a professional in-salon, it’s vital to take every safety route possible when doing it at home. Because any sentence with the words ‘blade’ and ‘skin’ in it shouldn’t be taken lightly!
So, with help from skincare expert Shawnda Dorantes, founder of Mind Body & Soul Medical and board-certified physician’s assistant Marlee Bruno, and dermatologists Dr Kristina Collins and Dr Hannah Kopelman, here is some much-needed advice on how to do home-dermaplaning like a pro.
What is dermaplaning?
“It is a gentle exfoliation technique where a sterile blade removes dead skin cells and fine facial hair, leaving the skin smooth and glowing,” explains Dorantes. “It’s like giving your skin a fresh start, a total glow-up for your face” adds Bruno.
Image – Valbarstudio/Stocksy
Benefits include:
- Brightens the skin
- Smooths and improves the skin’s texture
- Fades the look of lines and scars
- Helps skincare and makeup products absorb better
- Adds radiance, reduces dullness
Can you safely do it from home?
“Yes, it can be safe to dermaplane at home if you’re careful and use the right tools,” says Dr Kopelman. “I always recommend using a device specifically made for at-home use, like those single blade facial razors.”
But does it hurt? Dr Collins says no. “Dermaplaning is typically painless,” she explains. “Clients often describe the sensation as similar to a light brushing or scraping against the skin.”
And what if you go wrong? “Minor cuts or scratches can occur if the blade is not handled correctly,” Dr Collins says. “And the skin may feel slightly sensitive post-treatment.”
Who shouldn’t do it?
Dr Kopelman suggests those with active skin conditions should steer clear. “If you have active acne, rosacea, eczema or any open wounds, dermaplaning isn’t a good idea at home,” she says.
“It can make inflammation worse of spread bacteria. For sensitive or reactive skin, I’d also advise against it as it can sometimes cause irritation. In those cases, it’s better to leave it to a professional who can adjust the technique to your skin’s needs.”
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And even if you have the most ‘normal’ of normal skin types, something like dermaplaning should still be approached with caution. Start off by working on a small section of the skin and build up your dermaplaning sessions from there.
“Once every 3-4 weeks is ideal,” advises Dorantes. “This allows your skin to regenerate without causing irritation.”
The tools you’ll need
In order to do dermaplaning correctly and safely, you’ll need to surround yourself with the right kit. “Safety is all about the right tool and technique,” warns Bruno. “Trust me, this isn’t the time to DIY with a kitchen knife (yes, people have tried.)” Wow.
You’ll need:
- “A gentle cleanser to remove makeup, dirt and oil [first],” says Dr Collins.
- “A clean, sharp tool designed for dermaplaning (like those from brands like Tinkle of Schick),” advises Bruno. Or, Dr Collins adds, “a razor designed for at-home use, e.g. a safety blade or facial razor,” she says. “Using improper tools or failing to sterilise them can lead to infection or irritation.” Noted.
- “A hydrating serum or moisturiser [for when you’ve finished] and a sunscreen for the next day,” Dr Collins adds.
How to dermaplane from home for best results
Dr Collins advises dermaplaning in the evening, after cleansing and before applying serums or treatments. “This allows products to penetrate effectively without exposure to sun or pollutants immediately after,” she says.
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
1. Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser.
2. “Dry your skin thoroughly by patting it dry with a clean towel,” says Dr Collins.
3. “Gently pull your skin taut to create a smooth surface,” she adds.
4. Using a clean blade, “hold [your dermaplaning tool] at a 45-degree angle and gently glide it across your skin,” Dorantes says.
5. “Make short, gentle strokes downward,” Dr Collins advises.
6. “Skip active breakouts, the nose or delicate areas around the eyes,” she adds.
7. “Rinse with lukewarm water and use a soothing, hydrating serum or moisturiser.”
8. Wearing SPF is particularly crucial the following day as your skin might be extra sensitive.
How long does it to take to see results?
The beauty of dermaplaning is that you don’t have to wait weeks to see all the benefits. “You’ll notice immediate benefits like smoother skin and a brighter complexion,” says Dr Collins. However, “cumulative results e.g diminished fine lines or scars may require regular sessions over several months.”
Does facial hair grow back thicker?
It’s one thing making your skin smoother, but it’s a whole different ball game if it means the hairs on your face grow back thicker! Am I right? Thankfully though, Dr Kopelman says this is just a rumour. “It’s a total myth,” she explains.
“Dermaplaning only removes vellus hair, which grows back with the same texture and colour. Sometimes people think it’s thicker because the hair feels a little stubbly at first, but that’s just because the blade cuts it bluntly.”
The takeaway
So, it’s fine to try dermaplaning at home, as long as you follow the correct procedure. Always use a clean blade, dermaplane in gentle strokes on clean, dry skin and make sure you have a soothing serum and/or moisturiser to hand for afterwards.
If you have sensitive skin or active acne, the advice is to avoid dermaplaning but even if you have a normal skin type, you should still approach it carefully.
Meet the experts
Shawnda Dorantes, MSN, APRN, FNP-C, is founder of Beauty Lounge Medical Spa in San Diego, California. She is also an acclaimed nurse practitioner, master injector and prominent skincare expert.
Marlee Bruno, M.M.S., PA-C is founder of Mind Body & Soul Medical, a top-tier wellness destination in Pensacola, Florida. She is also a beloved associate Professor at Florida State University and the University of South Alabama and a board-certified physician’s assistant.
Dr. Kristina Collins is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in Mohs micrographic surgery, as well as surgical and cosmetic dermatology. She earned her M.D. as valedictorian from Vanderbilt University and completed advanced training in dermatology at Harvard, where she now contributes to teaching and specializes in skin cancer treatment and cosmetic procedures.
Dr Hannah Kopelman is a dermatologist at Kopelman Hair Restoration.
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