Why You Should Always See a Professional for Dermaplaning
Main image – Alexeykuzma/Stocksy
Grace Day is an esthetician and beauty editor who divides her time between testing and reviewing the latest launches, and providing treatments and skincare routine coaching from her Manchester studio. Each month, Grace shares her learnings and observations straight from the salon, along with her verdict on the latest trends and product launches, here in her series “In the Treatment Room with Grace Day.”
If you regularly get sucked into the black hole of skincare content on TikTok then you’ll know that dermaplaning is a hot topic on the app right now. The treatment basically involves using a scalpel to remove the peach fuzz (known as vellus hair) off the face and has been a common in-salon treatment for over 40 years.
But with more and more people attempting to DIY the treatment at home, it’s something that, as an esthetician, I’m frequently having to remedy the side effects of in salon.
For this reason, I have a very love-hate relationship with dermaplaning. When done correctly, it’s an amazing way to remove facial hair and dead skin, resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion and improved product absorption and makeup application. When done incorrectly, however, it can lead to a severely damaged skin barrier with symptoms like increased breakouts, dryness, and irritation – all of which can have quite a lasting impact on the skin.
In fact, I’ve only recently introduced the treatment into my services – ultimately because I’d rather people came to me for their dermaplaning, than attempting it at home. It’s something I’m asked about frequently, and there are definitely a lot of myths and misconceptions around the treatment – which I’ve busted below.
So, if it’s something that you’re considering trying, hopefully, this article help you to understand why it’s best to book in with a professional for dermaplaning rather than taking matters into your own hands.
What is dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a method of facial hair removal, carried out using a sterile, surgical scalpel. This is used to gently shave the skin’s surface, removing the outermost layer of skin as well as the peach fuzz (vellus hair).
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
Freshly dermaplaned skin has an instant glow and smoother, brighter appearance. This is because, as a form of manual exfoliation, the treatment removes around two to three weeks of dead skin cells and also triggers the cell regeneration process.
Due to the removal of hair and dead skin blocking pores, skincare products can better penetrate skin – which is why it’s typically performed at the start of a facial.
Plus, in removing the peach fuzz of vellus hair, makeup applies smoothly and most people will find it sits much better on their skin.
What are the side effects of dermaplaning?
Will my hair grow back faster and thicker?
One of the biggest myths around hair removal is that hair grows back faster and thicker once it’s been removed. Don’t worry, this is totally untrue.
Firstly, the rate at which your hair grows is unique to you, and cannot be changed by the way you remove it.
Secondly, vellus hair cannot get thicker. As it grows back on a taper (with a blunt tip first), it can feel thicker initially when it first grows, but as it grows out, the taper thins and hair will feel much softer.
Is dermaplaning painful?
Dermaplaning may be slightly uncomfortable (a slight scratchy feeling), but it should never be painful.
It’s important to note that even with a professional treatment, there’s always a small risk of getting a minor cut or superficial grazing (given how sharp a scalpel is!), but this is much less likely to happen from the hands of an experienced aesthetician.
Image – Alejandro Piorun/adobe
How often should you have dermaplaning?
Everyone’s hair grows at a different rate, so a good way to gauge how often you’ll need to book your dermaplaning treatment is to see how long it takes your hair to grow back after your first session.
To some extent, it’s totally up to you! Some people will wait for their hair to have some length before they want to remove it again, whereas other people will want it removed as soon as it starts reappearing.
How should I look after my skin after dermaplaning?
This is an important one, and oftentimes the reason why people’s at-home dermaplaning attempts go so wrong is because they’re not giving their skin the correct aftercare. Most importantly, I always recommend clients cease using retinoids or exfoliating acids for a week before the treatment and for a week afterwards. I also advise them to avoid all other forms of exfoliation and hair removal.
It’s incredibly important to focus on repairing and strengthening the skin barrier after a dermaplaning treatment. Using a gentle cleanser, a nourishing moisturiser, and thoroughly applying (and reapplying!) SPF 50 is essential.
Why is it best to have dermaplaning done by a professional?
Dermaplaning is taught to aestheticians as an advanced treatment, which means it’s not even covered in the first two years of our training! When we do undergo training, we’re taught which type of scalpel to use, how to move the blade across skin, the angle to hold it, the direction to move in, and which areas of the face to avoid – there’s a lot more to it than meets the eye!
6 new skincare launches I loved this month
Image – Skin Rocks
I’ve yet to meet a Skin Rocks product that I haven’t fallen in love with, and the latest launch is no exception. More than just a vitamin C serum, this is a potent antioxidant blend which sees vitamin C boosted with next-gen antioxidant acetyl zingerone, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, and green tea extract. It’s instantly brightening and works in the long run to preserve collagen levels and reduce signs of skin ageing.
Collagen supplements are something I’m frequently asked to recommend. These are my personal favourites, because they not only do good (thanks to clinically proven natural marine collagen, antioxidant complex B-Blend4, and vitamin C to enhance collagen synthesis)—but taste great too.
This is the latest CeraVe product to make its way across the Atlantic—a potent blend of 10% pure vitamin C formulated alongside ceramides to help support the skin barrier and reduce chance of irritation or sensitivity. An excellent choice for via C newbies!
Exfoliation without the irritation is basically the dream—and is exactly what this milky toning solution does. Instead of relying on exfoliating acids, it utilises a yeast ferment technology with 3% fermented N-acetylglucosamine (NAG). This gently exfoliates the skin surface to help smooth uneven texture and brighten the complexion, while squalane strengthens and supports the skin barrier.
I’m a long-term subscriber to Skin + Me’s fantastic prescription-strength acne treatment, so was excited to learn that the people behind the brand were launching a new sister brand, And Begin. Same premise, this time aimed at addressing signs of ageing in mature skin. Simply take part in a quick consultation and you’ll be sent a serum boosted with proven prescription active ingredients.
Get Glowing!
