Gourmand Fragrances Are Finally Growing Up – Here’s How to Wear the Trend

Main image – Mathilde Langevin

When you think of a classic gourmand fragrance, what’s the first thing that usually springs to mind? I’ll go first: Synthetic, sickly sweet but oh-so good enough to eat (as long as you have a sweet tooth). But recently gourmand has had a noticeable shift: the edible notes are growing up.

Because now, instead of looking for something heavy, musky and sweet, consumers are now actively searching for – and singling out – more sophisticated notes like pistachio, cherry and coconut milk. Which couldn’t be further from the synthetic vanilla, cotton candy and caramel notes I remember from the 90s.

 

 

And it’s not just the notes that are evolving, fragrance lovers are too; now opting for scents that evoke a particular mood or memory instead of plumping for the latest on-trend fragrance brand or celebrity creation. Even TikTok is helping consumers become much more knowledgeable about perfume ingredients. 

So what’s behind this sudden shift? And what notes should we be looking for to embrace gourmand’s grown up new sister?

I ask PerfumeDirect.com’s Jonny Webber, CEO of Mumu Bath Sasha Chou, and artisan perfumer Chavalia Mwamba for their take.

 

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Why gourmand fragrances are growing up

“Traditionally, gourmand fragrances were often very sweet, playful, or dessert-like, but now people seem to want something that still feels comforting and delicious, without being overly sugary,” Chou explains. “I think the modern gourmand is more about balance, warmth, and texture.”

For example? “Notes like cherry, honey, coconut, or pistachio can feel much more refined when they are paired with woods, tea, soft florals, citrus, amber, or musk,” she says. “Cherry with sandalwood or black tea feels more elegant than cherry candy. Honey with osmanthus or amber can feel soft and luxurious. Coconut with fig, green notes, or musk feels more elevated than a very sweet tropical coconut.”

“Consumers are becoming more discerning and are looking beyond what have been deemed previously as traditionally sweet gourmand compositions,” adds Mwamba. “While vanilla remains a strong mid to base of the gourmand category, fragrance lovers of today are drawn to more nuanced interpretations that balance indulgence with sophistication.”

“Today’s gourmands tend to sit closer to the skin and reveal themselves gradually instead of shouting ‘I’m here’ the minute you walk into the room.”

And it appears that a bit more subtlety is key. “It’s still gourmand – but executed with restraint,” says Webber. “There’s also been a noticeable shift towards fragrances that feel luxurious and more personal. Today’s gourmands tend to sit closer to the skin and reveal themselves gradually instead of shouting ‘I’m here’ the minute you walk into the room.”

Even body care is increasingly embracing the same sophisticated gourmand notes as consumers have started to layer up their scents. My all-time favourite fragrance is Jo Malone London Blackberry & Bay Cologne but, while I certainly don’t want to announce ‘I’m here’ when I walk into a room, I feel even this is too light to wear alone. So, I apply a generous helping of the corresponding body cream and layer it up with my perfume – it works a treat.

 

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Trending gourmand notes

Cherry

“Cherry has had a huge revival,” explains Webber. “I think the best interpretations are the ones that really lean into its darker side. Combining cherry with smoky woods, leather, spices or patchouli, for example, turn it mature and moody rather than candy-like.” 

Tom Ford Electric Cherry Eau de Parfum (£290 for 50ml from Tom Ford Beauty UK / $405 from Tom Ford Beauty US) is the perfect example of how cherry has evolved into something much more sophisticated. You would think that a cherry perfume would simply smell of candy, but this scent pairs cherry with sensual florals and musks to create something both playful and grown up all at the same time.

If you want to try a grown-up fruity fragrance but can’t actually stand cherry (it’s not for everyone, even if it has evolved), try KAYALI Eden Sparkling Lychee 39 Eau de Parfum (£73 for 50ml from Boots UK / $105 from Sephora US) which has that same juicy, playful feel while still leaning sophisticated.

 

Honey

“Honey-based scents also feel much more elegant than they used to,” Webber says. “Balanced with florals, tobacco, woods or amber, honey comes across as rich and golden warm rather than smelling saccharine-sweet.”

Phlur Honey Moon Eau de Parfum (£99 for 50ml from Space NK UK / $99 from PHLUR US) combines florals with honey, and sandalwood as a warm base note. 

 

Coconut

Webber says that ‘even’ coconut has had an upgrade. “Contemporary fragrances pair coconut notes with creamy sandalwood, white florals or salty marine accords,” he explains. “It feels much more like luxury, sun-warmed holiday skin than sun cream or tropical cocktails.” 

And remember, gourmand isn’t just about the perfume you spritz anymore. Laura Mercier Serum Body Cream Almond Coconut (£58 from Boots UK / $70 from Bloomingdale’s US) is a gorgeous example of how sophisticated edible notes are now finding their way into body care too, plus this one makes for great skincare. Layer it under your preferred gourmand scent too and you’ll add additional depth to your fragrance profile while extending its wear time too.

 

Vanilla bean

“Vanilla bean provides depth instead of confectionery sweetness,” says Mwamba. “When balanced thoughtfully, these notes deliver an addictive gourmand signature that feels intimately sophisticated and effortlessly luxurious.” 

Try the new Weleda body spray in Vanilla Cloud (£15.95 from Look Fantastic UK) which includes comforting notes of vanilla, warm biscuit and spun sugar.

 

Pistachio

“Search data shows interest in pistachio perfume has grown by 852% year-on-year, while #pistachioperfume continues to gain traction across social media,” Webber says. 

“Pistachio is definitely one of the standout notes for me. Slightly salty, creamy and understated, it really delivers that edible, gourmand feel without tipping into cloying sweetness. It feels sophisticated and expensive too, which is a big part of its appeal.” Sign me up! 

A great place to start is L’Occitane Almond & Pistachio Hair & Body Mist (£39 from L’Occitane UK / $42 from L’Occitane US) which is light, summery and combines two of the biggest gourmand notes of the moment (pistachio and vanilla) beautifully.

 

Cocoa

Best when combined with vanilla and/or amber, gourmand cocoa smells like rich chocolate.

Vaseline’s Intensive Care Cocoa Radiant Body Lotion (£3.75 from Boots UK / $7.98 from Amazon US) is an ideal budget introduction to gourmand body care – and the wider line also includes body washes and lip products.

 

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The takeaway

While some might not traditionally love a gourmand fragrance and would prefer their culinary ingredients to stay firmly in the kitchen, these scents aren’t going anywhere. 

However, the good news is they are also evolving and becoming much more refined. Gone are the days of syrupy sweet perfumes that overpower and make you wince. 

The latest edible notes are far more sophisticated and complex, making the overall result wearable, more grown up and, dare I say it, even luxurious! 

 

Meet the experts

Jonny Webber is Fragrance Expert at Perfume Direct

Sasha Chou is CEO of Mumu Bath, a Brooklyn-based bath, body, and home fragrance brand

Chavalia Mwamba is an artisan perfumer of over 20 years with a background in education