Let’s Discuss the Difference Between Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives?
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When it comes to skincare, we’re often bombarded by words like hyaluronic acid, retinol and non-comedogenic. Humectants, emollients and occlusives are three other words we see often and whilst Google is everyone’s teacher, sometimes information across the worldwide web can get a bit muddled.
So, here is your humectants, emollients and occlusives 101, once and for all. Because honestly? Even though you might vaguely know that they’re all different types of moisturiser – what is the damn difference?
Well, with expert comments from dermatologists Dr Stefanie Williams and Dr Hannah Kopelman, you’ll soon find out.
What are humectants in skincare?
“Humectants in skincare are ingredients that have the ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin,” explains Dr Williams. “By maintaining moisture levels, humectants in skincare can help hydrate, soften and smooth the skin.”
“They work by drawing moisture from the environment or deeper layers of your skin to the surface,” adds Dr Kopelman. “If you’ve ever used a product that made your skin feel instantly plump or dewy, chances are it had a humectant.”
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The most popular humectants and who they’re best for
1. Hyaluronic acid: “Excellent for all skin types, especially those with dry or ageing skin,” Dr Kopelman says. “It can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, thus hydrating and plumping the skin, without clogging pores,” adds Dr Williams.
2. Glycerin: “This works well for sensitive skin as it’s incredibly gentle,” says Dr Kopelman.
3. Urea: “This is a bit more intense [than others] and is perfect for people dealing with rough patches of eczema,” she says.
4. Lactic acid: “An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) attracts and holds moisture to the skin, as well as being a gentle exfoliant,” Dr Williams explains. “Lactic acid is suitable for most skins, apart from dry and sensitive skin.”
5. PHAs [polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid]: “Due to their slower penetration, they are more suitable for even dry and sensitive skins,” she says. “These are considered to be more effective moisturisers than AHA due to their multiple hydroxyl groups that allow them to effectively bind water molecules, which helps to keep the skin hydrated. They also provide gentle exfoliation and improve skin’s barrier function.”
6. Pentavitin [saccharide isomerate]: “Another one suitable to all skin types and a hydrating hero, attracting and retaining moisture in the skin for prolonged periods, in addition to nourishing the skin,” she adds. “One of its key advantages is its ability to provide deep, long-lasting hydration to the skin. It works by binding to the skin’s keratin fibres, forming a moisture barrier that prevents water loss. This allows it to stay on the skin even after washing, continuing to provide hydration benefits for several days.”
What are occlusives in skincare?
Dr Kopelman says these act differently to humectants. “Occlusives act as a barrier on the surface of your skin, preventing moisture loss,” she explains. “They don’t draw moisture in like humectants do, but they help lock in whatever hydration is already there.
“Their primary function is to lower invisible water evaporation from the skin, which is known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL),” says Dr Williams.
“I recommend occlusives for those with dry or compromised skin, especially in cold weather,” adds Dr Kopelman.
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The most popular occlusives and who they’re best for
1. Squalane: “Suitable for most skin types, this is lightweight, non-greasy and is easily absorbed (which cannot be said for many other occlusives!),” explains Dr Williams.
2. Petrolatum and mineral oil [the latter is derived from petroleum]: “They can feel heavy and greasy on the skin so are not suitable for oily, congested or breakout-prone skin,” warns Dr Williams. “I am not a fan to be honest, but they have been widely used in cosmetic and personal care products for over a century.” Petrolatum is ideal for those with dry, flaky skin.
3. Dimethicone: “A silicone-based occlusive that works well for people who prefer a lighter feel [than petrolatum],” says Dr Kopelman. Dr Williams says this comes with a warning. “They are extremely common in skincare however, I do not advocate their use, as they can occlude pores (like a polyfiller for the wall) and contribute to congestion and breakouts, as well as making the skin duller over time as they slow down natural exfoliation of dead skin material,” she warns.
4. Natural occlusives like lanolin, beeswax, jojoba oil and shea butter: “These work as occlusives, forming a protective film on the skin’s surface,” explains Dr Williams. “They can work well for dry, sensitive skin without congestion or breakouts, but should be avoided in oily, congested and blemish prone skin.”
What are emollients in skincare?
In short, skin softeners! “They fill in the gaps between skin cells, which is why they’re often used for improving skin texture,” explains Dr Kopelman. “I find them especially useful for patients with rough or textured skin issues.”
“Many emollients also form a thin film on the skin’s surface, which helps prevent water loss and keeps the skin hydrated (that’s why there are a lot of ingredients which work as both an occlusive as well as an emollient),” Dr Williams adds. These include things like lanolin, squalane, glycerin, silicones and natural oils like jojoba oil.
“By filling in gaps between skin cells and forming a protective layer, emollients help improve the skin’s barrier function, lower water loss from the skin and thus increase hydration.”
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Other popular emollients and who they’re best for
1. Shea butter: “It’s deeply nourishing and best for dry skin (link to routine for dry skin),” says Dr Kopelman.
2. Ceramides: “Perfect for anyone dealing with a compromised skin barrier, like those with eczema or sensitive skin.”
Can you use all three together?
Dr Williams says yes you can! “Many skincare products include a combination of two or three of these components to enhance benefits,” she explains.
“Using all three together creates a perfect balance,” adds Dr Kopelman. “Humectants draw in moisture, emollients soften and occlusives seal everything in. This layering effect works wonders for those with dry or combination skin.”
“However, those with oily, congested or breakout-prone skin should be careful and choose wisely,” warns Dr Williams.
Image – Ohlamourstudio/Stocksy
How to tell if your skincare includes humectants, occlusives or emollients
It’s simple – check Google, as well as the ingredients list on the product packaging. “Terms like ‘glycerin’ or ‘hyaluronic acid’ indicate humectants, while ‘petrolatum’ or ‘dimethicone’ suggest occlusives,” says Dr Kopelman. “Emollients are usually things like ‘shea butter’ or ‘ceramides’. The order of these ingredients also matters – if they’re listed early, it means there’s a higher concentration.”
Look for keywords too. “’Hydrating’ often indicates humectants, ‘barrier-repairing’ might suggest occlusives and ‘smoothing’ could point to emollients,” adds Dr Williams.
The takeaway
Humectants, occlusives and emollients – all three are good for hydrating the skin but do so in different ways, and in different strengths.
Humectants are suitable for all skin types and draw in moisture from the outside, in. Occlusives form a barrier to stop moisture from getting out and tend to be quite greasy so aren’t ideal for oily, congested skin types. And emollients are skin softeners that reduce water loss, great for those with rough, textured skin.
You can use all three together, depending on your skin type and needs, and remember to check the label and website to tick off the ingredients you’re particularly interested in when purchasing.
Meet the experts
Multi-award-winning Dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams is the founder and Medical Director at Eudelo Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing in Central London. She is a GMC-registered doctor, German-qualified dermatologist, author, international speaker, and key opinion leader in the industry. With a special interest in the management of adult acne, rosacea and skin ageing, Dr Stefanie has published in-depth reports on these topics, and in 2019 she founded Delo Rx, a revolutionary anti-ageing skincare range for women with breakout-prone skin.
Dr. Hannah Kopelman has completed two clinical fellowships in dermatology – hair loss from Columbia University and skin cancer from Boston University. She is also extremely active on YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, and has a weekly dermatology podcast called Derm Club.
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