Yes, Your SPF is Still Safe – Despite the Recent Controversies. Here’s Why.
Main image – Leandrocrespi/Stocksy
If you’re a regular beauty addict, you’ll be all over this year’s SPF related controversies regarding Ultra Violette and Tower 28.
And if not, to put you in the picture, In June it was revealed by Australian consumer rights magazine, Choice, that Ultra Violette’s Lean Screen SPF 50 was failing to give its full promised SPF protection. Meanwhile, in May, Tower 28 was forced to apologise after complaints that its new “no white cast” SOS FaceGuard SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen was anything but universal on deeper skin tones.
Image – Ultra Violette
To make matters worse, all this SPF hoo-ha followed the incredibly unhelpful (and completely false) ‘sunscreen gives you cancer’ trend that was swirling around TikTok last summer. Sigh.
Ultra Violette has since taken Lean Screen off the shelves, with the brand advising consumers to stop using the product and saying, “Given this pattern of inconsistency in testing, we have decided to withdraw Lean/Velvet Screen from the market, effective immediately. Purchases of this product will be eligible for a refund and a product voucher, regardless of where it was purchased.” While Tower 28 has removed the “universal tint” marketing from its packaging.
Is it any wonder then that consumers are losing faith and gaining confusion when it comes to sunscreen? The experts are losing patience with misinformation too. “Honestly it’s frustrating,” says Dr Hannah Kopelman, dermatologist and skin cancer expert. “As a dermatologist I work so hard to build trust in the science and one viral video can undo so much of that.”
So as big advocates of SPF, we wanted to speak to the experts to reassure you exactly why sunscreen in general is still safe.
We’ve spoken to Dr Kopelman, as well as Kamal Kaur, owner and founder of The Cosmetic Regulator, anti-ageing expert Dr Kyle Landry, medical aesthetics doctor Dr Sonia Soopen, and board-certified dermatologist Dr Paul Farrant to explain clearly how sunscreen is specifically regulated and tested, where things can go wrong, and their tips on how to pick a trustworthy sunscreen.
Because we all deserve to feel safe in the sun.
How sunscreen is regulated
“In the UK & EU, sunscreens fall in the scope of Cosmetic Products under the UK & EU Cosmetic Product Regulations,” explains Kaur. “These regulations have a clear list of UV filters which are permitted in sunscreens and their maximum values.
“In both the UK & EU, cosmetic products are notified to the authorities on portals before they can be sold. They must also pass a Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment which is completed by a toxicologist to ensure the ingredients, and therefore the products are safe.”
Image – Valbarstudio/Stocksy
In Australia, it’s even stricter. “Sunscreens are therapeutic goods and regulated by the TGA,” Kaur continues. “Brands must submit a listing to the TGA for the product to become compliant, they can only do this if the manufacturer has the necessary GMP (good manufacturing practice) clearance. The Australian framework is very strict.”
And what about in America? “In the U.S, sunscreen is classified as an over-the-counter drug,” says Dr Landry. “That means before a product can hit the shelves, it needs to pass regulated efficacy testing and quality control to verify that it delivers the SPF protection it claims. In theory, this process should minimise issues with unreliable products, but in practice, that’s not always the case.”
How SPF is tested
Surely not on actual human skin? Oh you’d be surprised. Dr Landry explains. “When a sunscreen is being developed, in vitro testing (done outside of a living organism) is often used to estimate its SPF.
However, for certain claims to be approved, both in vitro and in vivo (on people) testing is required,” he says.
“‘In vivo’ testing typically involves applying a specific amount of sunscreen to a set area of skin, exposing that area to UV light, and then observing whether redness or burning develops over time.
“This step is where a lot of variability can occur. Some labs use specialised equipment to apply the product evenly, while others apply it manually. Differences in surface area coverage and how thickly the product is applied can significantly affect the results of these studies.”
Image – Leandorcrespi/Stocksy
Dr Kopelman for one is thankful for in vivo testing. “Personally, I’m grateful this testing exists, because it helps me confidently guide patients.,” she says. “It’s not dangerous or painful – it’s a validated, standardised process. It’s not perfect, but it gives us a pretty accurate idea of protection levels.”
Dr Farrant says it’s typically tested on the back, “with controlled UV exposure.” However, reiterates Dr Landry’s point. “Be aware that it reflects ideal application, and not always real-world usage,” he warns.
How other claims are regulated
Whilst the level of SPF is of course the priority here, it’s also essential for the user to know how their skin will look and/or react to a product. So how are claims around white cast overseen? And how do they regulate whether they are, for example, non-comedogenic or derm tested in Europe, the US and Australia?
Rather surprisingly, “these claims are less strictly regulated, especially in the US,” says Dr Farrant. “In the EU and Australia, broader consumer protection laws apply, but the claims often rely on brand-led internal testing or consumer panels, rather than clinical data. They’re helpful – but they’re not foolproof.”
“White cast is generally subjective, but a consumer user trial could be used to substantiate this,” explains Kaur. “For example, ‘8/10 said the product left no white cast/residue.’”
Image – Tower28
For non-comedogenic products, this involves “clinical testing under the supervision of a dermatologist over a period of time with clinical measurements to check if the product clogs pores,” says Kaur. And again, for ‘derm tested’, “clinical testing under the supervision of a dermatologist.”
“Other popular claims, like “reef safe,” “cruelty-free,” or “vegan” are usually determined by third-party certification groups,” adds Dr Landry. “These labels are based on ingredient lists, not actual testing of the final product.”
Dr Kopelman gets frustrated with these terms not being regulated by the FDA in the U.S.
“It drives me nuts,” she says. “In my practice, I teach patients to look beyond the buzzwords and focus on ingredients. It’s not a perfect system, but you learn what to trust after years of seeing what really works on real skin.”
Where it can all go wrong
Though it’s very rare, Dr Farrant says things can go awry as a result of many different factors. “Errors can arise from poor testing, lack of independent validation, or inconsistent manufacturing batches,” he explains.
“With viral TikToks or brand claims that aren’t independently verified, there’s room for misunderstanding. Ingredient degradation, packaging faults, and mislabelling can all undermine a product’s actual integrity and protection.”
Dr Kopelman continues, “with Tower 28, I suspect it was a combination of formulation and misunderstanding how SPF claims are validated. There’s also a lot of consumer confusion around filters – chemical vs. mineral, UVA vs. UVB – it’s a lot. I spend half my day untangling it for patients.”
Image – Angelarober/Stocksy
Kaur says all product claims must be substantiated, “whether this be ‘white cast’ or SPF values, brands have a legal obligation to ensure there is evidence to substantiate the claims made,” she says.
“When 3rd parties test the product e.g. a lab in the case of Ultra Violette or consumers on TT in the case of Tower 28, it can mean that consumers lose trust not only in the brand but the product category as a whole.”
So can you still trust your SPF claims?
“Absolutely, consumers should feel confident that the sunscreens they are purchasing have undergone thorough testing and include approved UV filters at the compliant levels,” reassures Kaur.
And if you find one you love, stick to it! “Consumers should purchase from reputable brands which they have confidence and trust in.”
Dr Soopen reiterates this. “It’s important to take a step back and look at the bigger picture. While no industry is immune to the occasional slip-up, the overwhelming majority of sunscreens, especially those from reputable brands are both safe and effective when used correctly.
“The science is clear: sunscreen remains one of the most important tools we have to protect our skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation.”
“It helps to be an informed consumer,” too, she adds. Dr Landry says the key is to read the instructions, particularly when it comes to how much to apply as all products are different. “Many people don’t realise they might not be applying enough to get the advertised level of protection,” he warns.
“Take spray sunscreens, for example: some large bottles may only contain enough product for four full applications if used as directed. Yet, people often use the same bottle for weeks or even months, which suggests they’re significantly under-applying.”
Any other common mistakes we should bear in mind? “Storing sunscreen in hot environments, like inside a car,” he says.
“High temperatures can degrade the formula over time, reducing its effectiveness. To get the most out of your sunscreen, store it indoors and apply it generously and consistently.”
How to pick a trustworthy SPF
Dr Farrant advises that you, “choose brands with transparent clinical testing or TGA/FDA approvals. Avoid overly hyped or under-researched products – especially those marketed solely via social media.”
“I look for broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, a texture that feels good on the skin, and a brand that’s not afraid to share its test results,” says Dr Kopelman.
“I rotate between mineral and chemical depending on the day. If I’m going makeup-free, I’ll grab a tinted mineral one with iron oxide. For workouts, I love a chemical gel formula that won’t run into my eyes.”
What if you’ve got a deeper skin tone and it says ‘invisible’ on the bottle? “The truth is, most “invisible” claims aren’t tested on deeper skin tones,” she adds. “I always advise my patients to seek out tinted mineral sunscreens or hybrid formulas that blend better.”
Dr Kopelman’s favourite trick? “Watching video reviews from creators with your skin tone,” she explains. “That real-world feedback is so much more useful than anything you’ll read on the bottle.” As long as they’re not telling you that sunscreen gives you cancer, it’s a great tip.
The takeaway
First and foremost, it’s important to remember that all experts agree that SPF is both safe and essential for helping to protect against skin cancer and sun damage. Whilst things may have gone wrong in the past, these errors are rare and any claims by so-called online ‘experts’ that SPF gives you cancer are completely false.
As you can see, SPF levels are rigorously tested and, in some cases, even done so on human skin. Unfortunately, claims around terms like ‘non-white cast’ and ‘non-comedogenic’ aren’t so strictly regulated so it’s important to stick to the brands you love and trust, check the label for ingredients you know align with your skin type and make sure you read the instructions so you can apply the right amount.
Meet the experts
Dr Hannah Kopelman is a board certified dermatologist and chief medical officer at DermOnDemand
Kamal Kaur is owner/founder of The Cosmetic Regulator, a regulatory consultancy
Dr Kyle Landry is co-founder and president of Delavie Sciences
Dr Sonia Soopen is a dentist & medical aesthetics doctor at Grand Aesthetics
Dr Paul Farrant is Consultant Dermatologist at Experts in Skin and Hair
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