What Exactly Is Vitamin C in Skincare and Do You Need It?
Main Image – AI Farm/Adobe
You’ve most likely heard about it and that it’s good for the skin, but do you really know everything about vitamin C? Things like why it’s so beneficial, how it works and which formula it works best in.
In case you want to delve deeper into the ins and outs of vitamin C, this guide should leave you nice and knowledgeable. From what it is to who should avoid it, here is your one-stop-shop for all things vitamin C, with expert tips from founder of Skin Botanist, Jessica Kerr and Valerie Aparovich, biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin.
What is vitamin C?
Kerr says it gives skin a lift. “Think of vitamin C as a super booster for your skin,” she says. “It’s an antioxidant that helps keep your skin healthy by promoting collagen production (which keeps skin firm) and protecting it from damage like pollution or UV rays. Plus, it brightens your skin and helps reduce dark spots.”
“In cosmetics, vitamin C can be seen in the following forms: L-ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate,” explains Aparovich.
Image – Anastasiapokliatska/Adobe
How does vitamin C benefit the skin?
“Vitamin C is like a guardian for your skin,” explains Kerr. “It fights off free radicals, which are nasty little molecules that can cause aging and damage [the skin]”. And it’s particularly handy if you experience dark spots too.
“It also stops too much pigment (melanin) from being made, which means fewer dark spots. And because it helps make collagen, it keeps your skin smooth and firm.”
Aparovich adds, “Vitamin C is an excellent ingredient for skin brightening,” she says. “It revitalizes and refreshes the skin, increases its luminosity, and promotes radiance and a healthy glow, renewing its tone, eliminating dullness, and evening out the complexion.”
It’s a brilliant hydrator too. “Vitamin C enhances the skin’s outermost layer’s ability to retain moisture and prevent water loss, strengthening its barrier functions and helping it maintain healthy hydration levels,” Aparovich explains.
“Therefore, it protects the skin from moisture-related extremums, such as becoming too dry or oily. Well-hydrated skin naturally appears plumper and smoother with decreased fine lines and wrinkles visibility.” Ok, sign us up!
Where can you find it?
Vitamin C can be found in many skincare products. “Vitamin C is a versatile ingredient that can be seen in almost any category of skincare products for all skin types, including cleansers, toners, lotions, essences, masks, face and eye creams, and serums,” explains Aparovich.
If you choose the serum option, it’s likely the vitamin C will penetrate deeper beneath the skin’s surface. “Serums are especially great because they’re powerful and get right into your skin,” Kerr says.
“When shopping, look for products that list L-ascorbic acid – this is the best form of vitamin C for your skin. And if you see something with vitamin E or ferulic acid on the label too, even better; they help make vitamin C work harder.”
Image – AI Farm/Adobe
How should beginners approach vitamin C?
Aparovich says users can start as young as in their early twenties. “I recommend prioritizing a vitamin C serum as it will help the skin reap maximum benefits from this multi-purpose ingredient,” she explains.
“Most vitamin C serums are sustainable for both night and daytime use, and you can make them a part of either your morning or evening routine, or both. Check the manufacturer’s advice on the package to make sure of usage peculiarities; some higher concentrated options (over 15%) with very acidic pH should be used overnight as they can increase skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet and trigger irritation.”
Kerr says to start slow with your percentage. “Pick a product with about 10% vitamin C and see how your skin likes it,” she explains. “You should put it on clean skin in the morning before you moisturise and slap on sunscreen. Vitamin C can actually help your sunscreen work better, protecting your skin from the sun.”
Beginners should also be patient and consistent. “Like other active ingredients, vitamin C needs time to unleash its full potential,” Aparovich says. “Usually, results come in a couple of weeks of regular use and shouldn’t be expected to appear overnight.”
And, according to Aparovich, where you keep your vitamin C product is vital. “Vitamin C is an unstable substance that can oxidize over time and lose efficiency, affected by factors like air, light, heat, and humidity, store your serum and other cosmetics with this component in a dark, cool place,” she explains.
Who should avoid using vitamin C?
“Vitamin C is generally safe for all skin types except for individual allergic reactions,” warns Aparovich. “Therefore, a local patch test is crucial before fully incorporating a vitamin C-enriched product into your skincare routine to ensure no adverse reactions like irritation or redness occur.”
If you’re worried, build up your use gradually by using it once a week, then twice a week and building up to every other day, then daily. This will help your skin get used to it but generally, vitamin C is not as powerful as ingredients like retinol which are more likely to cause skin reactions.
Image – Lightfieldstudios/Adobe
The takeaway
Who knew that vitamin C had so many perks? From dark spot reducing to brightening up the skin to making your sunscreen work harder, this ingredient is certainly one to include in your regime if you can.
Remember to start low with your percentage and build it into your regime gradually if you’re worried about potential skin reactions. Most people suit vitamin C, with the exception of allergy-prone skin types who may want to avoid using it altogether. And the most productive formula of them all when it comes to vitamin C is a serum as it can get deepest into the skin.
Meet the experts
Jessica Kerr is the founder of Skin Botanist, a 100% natural skincare brand handcrafted in Australia.
Valerie Aparovich is a biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician at OnSkin, a science-backed cosmetic scanner that enables safety evaluation of cosmetics, decodes ingredient formulations and analyses if products align with users’ skin needs and concerns.
Get Glowing!
