The Complete Guide to (Literally) Everything You Wanted to Know About Retinol
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If you’ve heard the word retinol being used when it comes to skincare but you’re still not sure what it actually is, you’ve come to the right place.
Consider this your retinol 101. Because here at Live That Glow we’re a fountain of knowledge (even if we do say so ourselves) and thanks to a helping hand from dermatologist Dr Hamdan Abdullah Hamed and cosmetic chemist, Dr Leanne King, this article answers all your burning questions about retinol.
From understanding what retinol actually is and what it does to figuring out who should use it, how to use it, when to use it and how long retinol takes to work once you’ve started using it.
So sit back, devour the information like you would with a good book and consider the mystery around retinol well and truly solved.
What is retinol?
It’s a derivative of vitamin A that increases cell production, among many other things. “It is well known because it can make your skin feel softer and fix different problems with the skin,” explains Dr Hamed. “Think of it as a skincare superhero!”
The different types (and some alternatives)
Retinol can typically be found in strengths of 0.25%, 0.5% and 1% but there are other forms of retinol, with varied strengths.
- Tretinoin (Also known as Retin-A): This usually comes in a strength of 0.025-0.1%. “This is the stronger version that you need a prescription for. It’s often used for acne and anti-ageing,” he says.
- Retinaldehyde (Also known as Retinal, 0.05-0.1%): “This is a bit stronger than regular retinol and works really well too,” Dr Hamed says.
- Adapalene (Also known as Differin, 0.1% and 0.3%): “You can buy this without a prescription and it’s very good for treating acne,” he explains. “It is also gentler on the skin.”
- Retinyl Palmitate (0.5-2%): “A gentler form of retinol that’s often found in creams and serums,” says Dr Hamed.
- Retinyl Acetate (0.5-2%): A synthetic vitamin A derivative.
- Bakuchiol: “This is from plants and works like an alternative, giving similar effects but without causing much irritation.”
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What does retinol do?
- Firms the skin: “It promotes cell turnover and stimulates collagen production” explains Dr King.
- Evens up the skin tone: “It can lighten up dark spots and help with hyperpigmentation,” Dr Hamed says.
- Provides smoother skin: “It helps shed old cells, making it feel softer,” he says.
- Helps acne-prone skin: “It reduces acne by preventing the pores from getting clogged,” Dr King adds. “It helps minimize the look of enlarged pores too,” Dr Hamed adds.
- Reduces scars: “The higher rate of cell turnover helps to fade acne scars,” says Dr King.
- Adds radiance: “With improved skin cell turnover, you get a nice, healthy glow,” Dr Hamed explains.
What are the downsides?
As with most ingredients, retinol has its disadvantages. “Even superheroes have their flaws,” warns Dr Hamed. But most of them occur when you first start using it.
“Your skin can become a bit more sensitive than usual,” he says. You can also experience redness and peeling. “This is sometimes called ‘retinol uglies’. It is normal, but it can be bothersome. And it might make your skin feel dry too, especially if you use too much.”
But how long do these side effects last? “Consumers will likely see the negative effects of retinol use for the first 4 weeks,” Dr King says. “A full skin turnover cycle takes around 4 weeks. Beyond this, the negative effects should start to wear off with signs of improvement over the following 4 weeks.”
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How long does retinol take to work?
Dr Hamed recommends being patient! “Do not think that results come fast,” he warns. “Normally it needs 4 to 12 weeks to really notice the benefits.” Consistency is key. “Be patient and keep using it regularly for the best results.”
Dr King goes on, “From 3 months onwards, significant results should start to be seen in skin tone and texture with skin looking healthier,” she says. “6 months onwards should be optimal results with decreased pigmentation and more radiant, smooth skin.”
Who can use retinol?
Whilst the experts say most people can use it, you’ve probably guessed from the downsides that retinol might not be tolerated by everyone. And those with sensitive skin (link to guide on sensitive skin) should be particularly cautious. “Build up your use more slowly due to the side effects,” Dr King suggests.
“If your skin gets irritated easily, begin with a lower strength or try something else like bakuchiol,” says Dr Hamed.
Also, women who are pregnant or breastfeeding should avoid it completely and ask their GP for further advice.
What age should you start using retinol?
If you’re a teen or in your 20s and experiencing mild acne, using a mild OTC retinol is advised, but speak to your dermatologist or GP first to confirm you need it. You can go for a higher prescription-strength retinoid like tretinoin if your acne is severe, but again you would have to follow medical advice.
If you want to use retinol for anti-ageing purposes only, then introducing it into your regime in your late 20s is recommended. “Retinol should be used when the early signs of ageing appear which is usually around late 20s, early 30s,” says Dr King.
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How to start using retinol for best results
“Begin with a low concentration like 0.25% or 0,5% and apply it only 2-3 times a week,” Dr Hamed advises. “Apply it after cleansing, before a hydrating moisturiser which contains soothers,” adds Dr King.
For more details on how to get started and reduce your chance of retinol purging, check out our guide to exactly how to apply retinol.
Where to apply your retinol
“Everywhere on your face, except around lips, nostrils and eyes,” warns Dr King. “These parts are more sensitive,” Dr Hamed adds. “If you feel irritation, you can put moisturiser on first before using retinol.”
How often should you use your retinol?
Once you’ve built it up to get your skin used to it, you can apply it every day. “Retinol should be used once a day, at nighttime only.” This is because some forms of retinol can break down in UV light. Only start applying it every night when your skin is behaving normally again.
Can you exfoliate while using retinol?
If you must exfoliate, Dr Hamed recommends using gentle exfoliation ingredients only. “You can exfoliate your skin but make sure you’re not using strong exfoliants together with retinol as this will help you avoid irritation,” he says.
Dr King on the other hand doesn’t see the need for layering exfoliating ingredients with retinol. “The skin turnover is already faster with retinol use so an extra exfoliator doesn’t need to be used and can cause further redness, irritation and dryness,” she says. “However, both chemical and physical exfoliators can be used carefully and on alternate nights to using retinol”
Image – Jayme/Adobe
How to use retinol with your other skincare ingredients
“Always use a high SPF moisturiser through the day,” says Dr King. “Pair retinol use with soothers such as bisabolol, green tea or niacinamide and hydration ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid and panthenol,” she advises.
Other ingredients that are safe to layer with retinol are caffeine, aloe vera and macadamia oil. “Ceramides and peptides also work well with retinol to increase its effect,” Dr King adds.
Ingredients to avoid include vitamin C, “which can increase sensitivity,” she says. Also, benzoyl peroxide is a powerful ingredient used to treat acne which, when combined with retinol, would be too strong for the skin. And acids that might also cause sensitivity when layered with retinol, such as azelaic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid and even gentle AHAs like lactic acid.
We have a full guide on the 10 dos and don’ts of layering your retinol with other skincare ingredients here.
How long does retinol last?
The general rule of thumb is that retinols have a shelf life of between 12 months and 3 years, depending on the formula. “All products will have a PAO symbol on the label indicating the expiry/stability of the product and this can be different for each formulation,” explains Dr King. “Retinol tends to make the product yellow over time as it breaks down and becomes less potent.”
Store yours properly to prolong its shelf life. “It is best to keep them in a cool and dark place, so they stay effective longer,” Dr Hamed adds.
The takeaway
So, how does it feel to be a retinol pro?
OK, maybe there are a few things you might want to read again to double-check. But, hopefully, you will now feel better equipped to start thinking about adding retinol to your skincare regime.
Choose which form and strength you think best suits your skin type and its needs and use your retinol accordingly. But remember to always introduce it into your regime gradually and only use it at night after cleansing.
Avoid exfoliating if you can, unless using very gentle exfoliating ingredients or alternating a chemical exfoliator on the days you don’t apply retinol to avoid sensitivity. Be patient with the results and expect your skin to behave differently for the first few weeks. After your skin has adjusted, stay consistent with it and you should notice the benefits after around three months.
Meet the experts
Dr. Hamdan Abdullah Hamed, MBChB, is a board-certified dermatologist and trichologist based in the UAE and co-founder of Power Your Curls.
Dr Leanne King is a cosmetic chemist and founder at Beauty Favours.
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