Consider This Your No-Nonsense Guide to Managing Rosacea
If you’re a seasoned rosacea sufferer, you don’t need us telling you what the symptoms are or how to treat them because no doubt, you’re already a pro.
But for those who are unsure about whether they have rosacea, or just have sensitive skin, or not and/or haven’t got a clue what it is or how to approach it, this straight-forward guide was basically made for you.
Here, we break down what rosacea is, what causes it, how you can tell if you’ve got it and how to treat it once and for all.
With expert quotes from dermatologists Dr Sina Ghadiri, Dr Hannah Kopelman, and Dr Shereene Idriss, Claudia Talsma, co-founder of Rosalique, and skin expert Nina Prisk, consider this your rosacea safe space.
What is rosacea?
“Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that most commonly affects the face,” explains Dr Kopelman. “It can cause redness, visible blood vessels and sometimes acne-like bumps. It’s often cyclical – flaring up for weeks or months before calming down.”
Image – Adobe
Although rosacea may sometimes look like acne though, according to Dr Idriss, “The reality is the two are very different and should be treated much differently than acne.”
And all skin tones can be affected too, she explains. “People often think rosacea only affects fair skin, but it can appear in all skin tones – it just looks different.
“In darker skin, the redness may be less noticeable, and instead, it can present as warmth, swelling, or acne-like bumps that don’t respond to typical acne treatments.”
What causes it?
While Dr Kopelman says the reasons aren’t completely understood, she adds, “we believe it’s a combination of genetics, an overactive immune response and environmental triggers. Some people also have an increased number of Demodex mites (a type of skin-dwelling organism) or heightened sensitivity to certain bacteria or UV light.”
Dr Idriss adds, “Triggers like heat, spicy foods, alcohol, stress, and harsh skincare products can cause flare-ups.”
What are the different types?
According to Dr Kopelman there are four main ones:
- Erythematotelangiectatic: “Persistent redness and visible blood vessels.”
- Papulopustular: “Redness with acne-like bumps.”
- Phymatous: “Thickened skin, often around the nose.”
- Ocular: “Affects the eyes, causing redness, irritation, and swelling.”
Dr Ghadiri adds that a rarer subtype, Morbiphans, can cause, “significant swelling of the upper two thirds of the face, including under the eyes.”
What are the symptoms?
According to Prisk, “The symptoms of rosacea can vary, but I typically see clients experience persistent redness, especially on the central areas of the face.”
Image – Adobe
Other common symptoms include, “sensitivity, burning or stinging sensations, visible blood vessels, and in some cases, small red bumps or pustules,” says Dr Kopelman. “It can also affect the eyes with dryness, grittiness, or irritation.”
Can you get rid of rosacea?
Sadly not fully, but there is some good news. “Rosacea is a chronic condition, so while it can’t be cured, it can absolutely be managed.” Dr Kopelman says.
“With the right skincare, lifestyle modifications, and medical treatments, many people keep their rosacea under excellent control.”
Dr Ghadiri adds, “Persistent redness can be more tricky to treat, and often a vascular laser is considered.”
The skincare ingredients to look for, and the ones to avoid
Start off by looking for the right ingredients for your at-home regime. “The best ingredients to look for in skincare products should be soothing, calming, hydrating, and moisturising, with anti-inflammatory properties to help manage rosacea symptoms effectively,” advises Talsma. She lists the best ones here:
- Bisabolol: “An effective anti-inflammatory agent that reduces the production of cytokines, molecules responsible for stimulating inflammation in the body and skin.”
- Zeolite: “A mineral known for its detoxifying properties, helping to remove impurities and calm irritated skin.”
- Panthenol (Provitamin B5): “A moisturising agent that enhances skin hydration, improves elasticity and promotes healing, therby reducing redness and irritation.”
- Urea: “A natural moisturising factor that maintains skin hydration and integrity, soothing dry and sensitive skin.”
- Shea Butter: “A rich emollient that nourishes and protects the skin, providing anti-inflammatory benefits and strengthening the skin’s barrier function.”
- Glycerin: “A humectant that attracts moisture to the skin, keeping it hydrated and supple.”
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): “Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and improves overall skin texture.”
- SPF50: “Protection is crucial for those with rosacea. Sun exposure is a common trigger for flare-ups, leading to increased redness and sensitivity.”
Talsma also warns against harsh ingredients, like alcohol, to avoid triggering a rosacea flare up.
- Alcohol (Denatured Alcohol, SD Alcohol, Ethanol: “Certain types of alcohol are found in toners, creams, and some foundations. These can strip moisture, weaken the skin barrier, and cause irritation. However, not all alcohols are harmful—fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, can be beneficial for the skin, like the one used in our Rosalique Night Cream.”
- Fragrance (Synthetic or Essential Oils): “Fragranced products, especially those containing synthetic fragrances, should be avoided. These are commonly found in moisturisers and cleansers and can trigger redness, irritation, and allergic reactions.”
- Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES): “SLS and SLES are detergents widely used in foaming products such as soaps, shower gels, and shampoos. While not inherently harmful, they can be very drying. This can be problematic for those with rosacea or sensitive, dry skin, as daily use may further strip moisture, leading to irritation and increased dryness.”
- Mineral Oils: “Although mineral oils do not necessarily harm the skin, they offer little to no benefits. They tend to sit on top of the skin rather than providing deep hydration. In some cases, they may cause skin irritation, especially for those with dry, sensitive, and rosacea-prone skin.”
Image – Adobe
How to build your at home rosacea skincare routine
So, now that you know which ingredients to look out for (and avoid), you can start building up your routine. Talsma recommends starting slowly. “A gentle approach is key,” she says.
“Start with a mild, non-foaming, fragrance-free cleanser to avoid irritation, and be more mindful about maintaining the vital natural layer of oils on top of the skin.”
Hydration and protection are also both key. “Look for a soothing moisturiser that strengthens the skin barrier, bonus points if your moisturiser contains anti-inflammatory ingredients like Rosalique,” she says.
“And never skip SPF – sun exposure is one of the biggest triggers for rosacea, so make sure to wear at least SPF30 sun cream throughout the day, to make sure your skin isn’t affected by the UV rays.
Talsma recommends Rosalique 3-in-1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula SPF50 (£29.99 from Rosalique UK /$39.99 from Rosalique US) which helps to protects against UV damage and helps reduce redness with its green-tinted formula.
“You can also try and use products that include redness-reducing ingredients, such as a-Bisabolol, liquorice root, panthenol and green tea extract.”
Make sure you skip the not-so-gentle steps too. “Avoid harsh exfoliation, such as scrubs or strong acids, as they can damage the skin barrier and lead to flare-ups,” Talsma warns.
“Hot water and steam can also worsen redness by dilating blood vessels. And overloading your routine with too many heavy active ingredients at once can increase sensitivity.” Makeup also needs to be monitored too. “Be careful with cover-up,” she adds. “Some makeup can actually cause your skin to flare up, so make sure you use something that’s suitable for sensitive skin that helps treat flare-ups as it covers.”
In office rosacea treatments
There’s more good news! “In-office, we have great options,” says Dr Kopelman. “Prescription topicals and oral medications can reduce inflammation and pustules. Laser and light therapies (like IPL or pulsed dye lasers) are especially effective for redness and broken capillaries.
“These can make a dramatic difference in reducing the visible signs of rosacea over time.”
Not sure which type of laser to ask your derm for? According to Dr Idriss, “When it comes to in office treatments for rosacea, VBeam is the gold standard. Vascular lasers like the VBeam are particularly effective for broken capillaries and reducing flare ups.”
You’ll also want to ask your dermatologist which particular subtype of rosacea you have, as different lasers can be more useful for treating different types of rosacea, according to Dr Ghadiri.
“For example with more phymatous disease an ablative laser such as a CO2 or erbium YAG may provide tremendous responses,” he explains.
And there are further in-office treatments too. Prisk adds, “We also use other treatments, such as chemical peels, which can help improve skin texture and reduce inflammation.”
The takeaway
So whilst there may not be a full cure for rosacea, all is not lost as there are multiple ways to reduce and relieve it.
Start by swotting up on your ingredients and look for one like Bisbolol and Urea (and avoid the ones she doesn’t like alcohol and fragrance to dodge a flare up).
Then you can build up a routine based on your newfound skincare knowledge with gentle cleansing, soothing hydration and high SPF protection. You can also go and see a professional to help reduce the signs of rosacea over a period of time too. Just make sure you find a reputable clinician who is board-certified and can treat your skin to what it needs.
Meet the experts
Dr Sina Ghadiri is consultant dermatologist and founder of Sinaesthetics.
Dr Hannah Kopelman is dermatologist at Kopelman Hair Restoration.
Dr Shereene Idriss is a board certified dermatologist and founder of Dr Idriss Dermatology and Dr Idriss Skincare.
Claudia Talsma is co-founder of sensitive skin brand Rosalique.
Nina Prisk is a Harley Street skin expert, aesthetics nurse and independent prescriber. She is the owner of Update Aesthetics Cosmetic Clinics in the UK.
Get Glowing!
