Redness, Sensitivity or Irritation? When Azelaic Acid May Not Be for Everyone
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Jordan Samuel Pacitti is an aesthetician, skincare founder and regular Live That Glow columnist. He is a go-to source of beauty advice for skincare fans across the world. Here, he advises a reader on when you may want to put down the azelaic acid.
I really like how azelaic acid helps my redness but I find it can make my skin itchy and tingly. Is there anything I can do to help that?
Jordan says:
Azelaic acid is an amazing ingredient for helping to combat breakouts and sensitivities, as well as helping with redness in certain skin tones; however, like any ingredient, and especially an active ingredient that is used at a robust percentage, not every skin will be able to get on with it.
There are some ingredients where it’s ok and even common to feel a mild tingle after use, which include many acids, whether alpha hydroxy, beta hydroxy, or in this case, azelaic acid. It is important to note that while a mild and temporary tingle is ok, it should go away shortly after application.
Itching, on the other hand, is another story, and in my experience, should be seen as a red flag. Whether the reaction is due to a specific ingredient or the sum of all parts of the products you are using in your routine, it signals that your skin is not getting on with something, serving as a warning sign to scale back. For instance, using a combination of actives in your routine—an azelaic acid, retinol, vitamin c, and any other exfoliating acids, for example—can sometimes lead to itching, peeling, breakouts and irritation.
Using these actives at different times of the day is often not enough to mitigate these unwanted side effects. Even if you are seeing the desired results from a product, certain side effects like itching, are a sign that it is time to scale back and save yourself from having further issues down the line.
On the flip side, if the itching is *extremely* mild and goes away quickly, it may be ok to continue using the product with some minor adjustments to your routine. For example, you can simply scale back the frequency of your use, perhaps going from 5-7 days a week to 2-3 days a week.
Another effective adjustment can be buffering the usage. For example, apply a hydrating and soothing serum or moisturizer before applying your azelaic acid.
Again, I would only recommend the above adjustments for continued use if the itching is very mild and subsides quickly. If the itching is more pronounced and happens every time you apply your azelaic acid, it’s a warning sign that something isn’t working. In this case, it’s best to contact a skincare professional, like an aesthetician or a dermatologist, to help get your skin back on track.
Jordan Samuel Pacitti
Founder & CEO, Jordan Samuel Skin
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