Peptides Might Be One of Our Favourite Skincare Ingredients: Here’s Why
Main image – Amorburakova/Stocksy
You may have come across the word ‘peptides’ on TV, social media or in magazines. Actually, you almost definitely have because, let’s face it, the mention of peptides in skincare is everywhere.
But guess what? It’s OK if you don’t know what on earth they are or what they do. Because that’s what we’re here for, along with dermatologists, Dr Michele Green, Dr Hannah Kopelman, Dr Nowell Solish and chief scientific officer at Indeed Laboratories, Dr Adel Rammal.
Keep scrolling to find out everything you need to know about peptides – what they are, their upsides, their downsides, how to use them and how to choose the right ones for you.
What are peptides?
“Peptides are naturally occurring small molecules that are made up of amino acids,” explains Dr Green. “They act as building blocks of proteins like collagens and elastin, which are crucial for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity,” says Dr Solish.
Image – Adobe
Dr Kopelman adds, “I like to think of peptides as little messengers that signal your skin to boost its production of these important proteins, helping to keep your skin smooth and resilient.”
What are the different types?
There are various different types of peptides which work in different ways.
The most common types of peptides to look out for on packaging are:
- Signal peptides (like Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide): “These stimulate collagen production, helping your skin appear firmer and more youthful,” Dr Kopelman says.
- Carrier peptides (like Copper Tripeptide-1): “These deliver trace elements, like copper, to the skin to help with healing and repair.”
- Enzyme-inhibitor peptides (like Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate): “These help slow down the breakdown of collagen, keeping your skin firm for longer.”
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (like Tripeptide-3, Argireline and Pentapeptide-3): “These are often called “Botox-like” peptides because they help relax facial muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.”
What do peptides actually do?
Lots of things, but they’re mainly an anti-ageing ingredient. “Peptides can help with reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, boosting skin hydration and plumpness, enhancing skin barrier function and promoting skin repair and reducing inflammation,” explains Dr Rammal.
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If you’re particularly in hot pursuit of giving your skin some extra ‘plump’, peptides are your friends. “Over time, collagen naturally breaks down, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin,” Dr Kopelman explains.
“By using peptides in your skincare routine, you’re encouraging your skin to produce more collagen, which helps to reduce fine lines, improve skin elasticity, and give you a more youthful glow.”
But can peptides actually penetrate the skin?
There’s been a whole debate over whether peptides can actually penetrate skin enough to work, however (thanks TikTok!). We asked the experts to settle the argument once and for all.
Dr Solish explains the permeability of peptides relies on each type’s size and structure. “Some peptides are designed to be small enough to get through the skin’s surface, but many primarily work on the outer layer,” he explains.
One 2021 study found this was true, with certain types of peptides able to penetrate the outermost layer of skin.
It turns out that depth of skin penetration isn’t actually essential to get the benefits from peptides though.
“They can still signal the skin to produce more collagen or elastin, even without deep penetration,” according to Dr Solish. And he says it depends on the formula of the product too. “Formulation matters and some products use technologies to help peptides get through the skin barrier more effectively.”
“Peptides work best when combined with other ingredients that help enhance their delivery, like antioxidants or hyaluronic acid,” agrees Dr Kopelman.
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Are there any downsides to using them?
The good news is that most skin types can tolerate them, according to Dr Rammal.
“However, [there can be] potential but minimal downsides. Some peptides can degrade quickly if not formulated or stored correctly, reducing their effectiveness,” he explains. “And though rare, some people may experience irritation or sensitivity, especially with products containing multiple active ingredients.”
Dr Kopelman adds, “While peptides can do a lot of good, they aren’t miracle workers overnight. You’ll need to use them consistently over time to see the best results.”
How to choose the right peptides for you
It’s good news for all skin types. “There is not a peptide that is better for any skin type,” says Dr Green. “They benefit everyone equally.”
When shopping for yours, Dr Kopelman recommends looking for formulas that include multiple types of peptides. “This gives you the benefits of both collagen production and repair, as well as protection against further collagen breakdown,” she says.
If you’re looking for specific results though, the experts have some recommendations.
“Matrixyl, glutathione and epitalon are great options for fighting signs of ageing,” Dr Green says.
“Matrixyl helps stimulate the production of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid, which improve the appearance of the skin. Epitalon is a peptide that has been shown to stimulate fibroblast activity, which leads to new collagen and elastin production,” she explains.
Meanwhile, “glutathione is an antioxidant that fades dark spots, reduces oxidative stress and combats the effects of damaging free radicals.”
Image – Adobe
How to apply your peptide for best results
It depends on what else is in your skincare routine. “Peptides work well with other active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and antioxidants, so feel free to layer them in your skincare routine,” explains Dr Kopelman.
You should usually apply peptides straight after cleansing so, “if you’re using a peptide serum, apply it directly onto your skin and gently pat it in, allowing it to absorb before moving on to the next step in your routine.”
However, “if you use toners or essences, apply the peptides after that,” she advises. “If you’re using a peptide cream, apply it as your last step in the evening to help it work overnight.”
And in the morning? Always follow your peptides with sunscreen. “And for enhanced results, peptides can be used in conjunction with vitamin C and niacinamides,” Dr Green explains.
The takeaway
Peptides are the key to plumped skin and reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as helping to fade dark spots, boost hydration and repair things like inflammation. When you think about it, they’re really, really useful.
Suitable for all skin types, there are lots of different types of peptides, and the downsides are minimal. Hooray!
Add yours into your regime wisely – straight after cleansing if using peptides in a serum but apply after a toner or essence. On the other hand, a peptide cream should be applied last in the evening, but before an SPF in the morning.
Either way, if you can slot peptides into your skincare regime, you might just notice a considerable difference in your skin’s elasticity and beyond.
Meet the experts
Dr Michele Green is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in NYC.
Dr. Hannah Kopelman has completed two clinical fellowships in dermatology – hair loss from Columbia University and skin cancer from Boston University. She is also extremely active on Youtube, Instagram, TikTok and has a weekly dermatology podcast called Derm Club.
Dr Nowell Solish is a dermatologist for Indeed Laboratories.
Dr Adel Rammal is chief scientific officer for Indeed Laboratories.
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