The Essential Guide to Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Niacinamide
Main image – Irynashepetko/Stocksy
Anyone who’s anyone has probably heard the word niacinamide in the context of skincare lately. But does anyone actually know what it is?
In short, niacinamide is a multi-tasking skincare ingredient which can be found in serums, moisturisers and toners. But how does it benefit the skin? And how should you introduce it into your skincare regime (if at all)?
Keep reading to follow expert advice from dermatologists Dr Hannah Kopelman, and Dr Kristina Collins, founder of Skin Botanist Jessica Kerr and skincare expert Caleb Backe.
They share the answers to everything you ever needed to know about niacinamide and whether it’s bound to be a hit (or a miss) for your skin type.
What is niacinamide?
Kerr explains that it is a form of vitamin B3. “A water soluble nutrient essential for skin health,” she says. “It’s a multi-tasking skincare ingredient renowned for its ability to strengthen the skin barrier, regulate oil production and address various skin concerns.”
“It is commonly used in commercial skincare products and is marketed as a ‘wonder-ingredient’ for its ability to work well with other skincare ingredients,” adds Backe.
Image – Adobe
What are the benefits?
- Improved hydration: “It helps the skin retain moisture by supporting its natural lipid barrier,” explains Kerr.
- Oil control: “It regulates sebum production, making it ideal for oily or combination skin types,” she continues.
- Brightening: “It can reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone.”
- Anti-inflammatory: “It calms redness and irritation, making it excellent for sensitive or acne-prone skin.”
- Fine lines: “It boosts collagen production and improves skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines,” she says.
Who shouldn’t use it?
Luckily, niacinamide is typically a universally safe ingredient. “Most skin types can benefit from the use of niacinamide,” says Backe. However, “if you have acne-prone skin I would avoid using it, especially on open sores or wounds,” he warns.
Kerr adds, “rarely, someone with an allergy or extreme sensitivity might need to avoid it, so patch testing it key.”
Can niacinamide cause purging?
According to Dr Kopelman, it cannot. “It’s not an exfoliant or something that speeds up cell turnover,” she explains. “If your skin reacts – like breaking out or feeling irritated – it’s more likely that you’re sensitive to the formula or one of the other ingredients in the product.”
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What concentration should you use?
As with anything, the experts suggest starting small. “For most people, I recommend starting with a lower concentration,” Dr Kopelman says.
“If you have sensitive or dry skin, something between 2-5% is great because it’s gentle. For oily or acne-prone skin, you can go up to 5-10% since it helps control oil and calm inflammation. If your skin is normal, 5% tends to be the sweet spot for benefits without irritation.”
When should you use niacinamide?
Dr Collins advises introducing it gradually into your nighttime routine. “Begin by applying it once every other day, gradually increasing to daily use if no irritation occurs,” she says. “Incorporate it into your routine after cleansing and toning but before heavy creams or oils.”
How often can you use niacinamide?
Once your skin is used to it, you can use it twice daily. “Niacinamide is so gentle that you can use it every day and most people tolerate it both morning and night,” says Dr Kopelman. “I use it regularly, especially in the mornings because it layers beautifully with other products.” And speaking of layering…
What other ingredients can you layer it with?
Whilst Kerr says you should avoid layering niacinamide with “potent active ingredients like AHAs or BHAs at the same time, as this may cause irritation,” here is what Dr Kopelman says you can use it with.
- Hyaluronic acid, “for hydration”
- Ceramides, “to support the skin barrier.”
- Retinol, “to reduce irritation.”
- Vitamin C, “for brightening, though if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to use those at different times of the day.”
How long will it take to see results?
The experts differ slightly here, but you should notice an overall improvement after up to 12 weeks.
Backe says “generally after a week or two, your skin should appear more hydrated and plump, with longer term benefits such as improved skin tone and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles starting to show after 4-8 weeks of consistent use.”
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Whilst Dr Collins says, “you may see subtle changes like reduced redness or a brighter complexion within 2-4 weeks. For improvements in pore size, hyperpigmentation or fine lines, consistent use for 8-12 weeks is typically required.” The main takeaway here is to be consistent and you will notice results at some point within the 12 week timeframe.
Can you become sensitive to it over time?
Some users have reported niacinamide to work well for a while but have then become sensitive to it later down the line. Dr Kopelman says it depends on how much you’re using. “It’s rare, but if you’re using very high concentrations (like 10% or more) some people may notice irritation over time,” she says.
“If that happens, just dial it back to a lower percentage or reduce how often you’re applying it.”
The takeaway
So, if you’re in the market for better hydration and oil regulation, brighter skin, calmed redness and irritation and improved skin elasticity, you might want to fit niacinamide into your skincare regime. Just watch out if you’re particularly sensitive or are experiencing active acne.
Introduce it slowly into your regime – once a day, every other day, is a good start – and build it up to twice daily – consistently – once your skin is used to it. Adjust the percentage according to your skin type and expect to see results within the 12-week mark!
Meet the experts
Dr Hannah Kopelman is a dermatologist at Kopelman Hair Restoration.
Dr. Kristina Collins is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in Mohs micrographic surgery, as well as surgical and cosmetic dermatology. She earned her M.D. as valedictorian from Vanderbilt University and completed advanced training in dermatology at Harvard, where she now contributes to teaching and specializes in skin cancer treatment and cosmetic procedures.
Jessica Kerr is the founder of Skin Botanist, a 100% natural skincare brand handcrafted in Australia.
Caleb Backe is a skincare expert for Maple Holistics.
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