Yes, These Common Lip Products in Your Daily Routine Really Can Cause Hyperpigmentation
Main image – Sergefilimonov/Stocksy
You may have heard about the controversy surrounding the Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil rumbling across the internet over the last couple of months. It has – reportedly – been causing lip hyperpigmentation, specifically on those with darker skin tones. And if this is the first you’ve heard of it, a quick peruse of Reddit or TikTok will fill you in on people’s experiences.
As a result of all this online chatter, we wanted to break down what’s been going on – as well as take a deeper look into whether this one particular lip oil is the problem, or whether it’s just taking the hit for a wider issue.
Here, dermatologists Dr Hannah Kopelman and Dr Anna Andrienko, and permanent makeup expert Karen Betts, give us their thoughts on what’s causing this problem.
They also fill us in on the ingredients and textures we should be avoiding to avoid lip hyperpigmentation, particularly during these UV-soaked summer months.
Why lip hyperpigmentation is suddenly trending
As I mentioned, there’s been a lot of online ‘noise’ recently about lip hyperpigmentation and speculation is rife that Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil is responsible.
Some users have theorised that the problem is due to this oil ‘frying’ the lips (ouch), while many TikTok derms think it is either due to a pigment in the product or the fact that it doesn’t contain UV protection.
@jerricadarapper Dior lip oil did me dirtyyyy ? but I shook back and ima help you do the same sista!! #fyp #foryou #lifehack #skincare #skincareroutine #blacklips #smokerlips #chemicalburn #sunburn #products
Other users have weighed in saying it could be due to an allergy to the scent, while some speculate that it could be an allergy to fatty acid esters, which act as an emollient in the formula. Whatever is causing it, the Dior’s iconic lip oil is a hot topic of conversation right now, unfortunately all for the wrong reasons (Live That Glow reached out to Dior for their comment. At the time of publishing, Dior had not yet responded).
However, Betts believes that some of the online feedback is a little over dramatic. “We’ve seen the speculation online, and while terms like “frying the lips” make for dramatic headlines, the reality is more nuanced,” she says.
She does, however, agree with the TikTok derms. “The issue is less about the product heating the lips and more likely due to two factors: certain pigments in the product and the lack of UV protection.” The problem lies in the texture too. “Glossy products can act like magnifying glasses, intensifying sun exposure, particularly if you’re not using SPF. This can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
And, according to the experts, this issue is definitely not confined to just one lip product.
Why the experts agree some lip products can cause hyperpigmentation
Apparently similar products can cause similar damage. “It’s not about one product or brand, but more about how lips react to what’s applied and how well they’re protected,” explains Betts.
“Your lips are extremely thin-skinned and lack the same natural barrier as the rest of your face,” says Dr Kopelman.
“When you apply something shiny, irritating, or dye-laden and then go outside without protection, you’re basically inviting UV-triggered inflammation. I’ve seen it in countless patients who are shocked when I point to their lip gloss as the cause.”
Image – Tatjanazlatkovic/Stocky
Dr Andrienko agrees. “Certain dyes, fragrances or even allergens in lip products can trigger inflammation, which over time may result in pigmentation changes,” she says.
And some product formulas are worse than others. “Lip glosses, oils and balms that lack SPF and especially those with shimmer or tint can intensify UV exposure and pigment-related changes,” explains Betts.
Also, “products with long-wearing or highly pigmented formulas may also contain ingredients that irritate sensitive lips.”
Who is most likely to be affected?
Unfortunately, those with medium and darker skin tones are often more at risk of suffering lip hyperpigmentation as a result of a lip product.
“The melanocytes in darker skin respond more intensely to inflammation and UV exposure,” says Dr Kopelman. “Anyone can experience this, but I see it most in patients with medium to dark skin tones.”
How to avoid lip hyperpigmentation
Ok, so what are a red flag ingredients to avoid if you want to prevent hyperpigmentation issues?
“I tell patients to steer clear of menthol or peppermint, fragrance (even ‘natural’ ones), phenol, certain dyes like Red 6, Red 7 Lake, any product that’s shiny but lacks SPF and any product that’s making your lips tingle,” Dr Kopelman warns.
Dr Andrienko also warns against cinnamon and lanolin whilst Betts says, “chemical sunscreens which can sometimes irritate lips in sensitive individuals, salicylic acid or alcohols (drying agents), and essential oils like citrus, lavender or eucalyptus.”
The best thing you can put on your lips, however, is SPF – preferably mineral, like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide – as it will protect your lips from UV damage.
Coola’s Liplux Tinted Lip Balm Zinc Oxide Sunscreen SPF 30 (£19 from Amazon UK /$18 from Coola US comes in four shades and contains mineral SPF protection, as well as mongongo oil to moisturise.
Having said that, SPF lip formulas are often annoyingly on the expensive side, and when it comes to a health-related product like this, it would definitely be great to see more brands offering affordable sun-safe formulas so that everyone can feel protected.
What to do if you’ve noticed hyperpigmentation on your lips
As soon as you have identified it, stop using anything new immediately as well as heavy pigments or fragranced products.
“Use SPF lip balms daily and opt for fragrance-free, hydrating formulas,” says Dr Andrienko. “At Dr Ducu Clinics, we often treat lip pigmentation with topical pigment inhibitor like azelaic acid or kojic acid, or, in more severe cases, with gentle laser treatments.”
Image – Anastasiamihaylova/Stocksy
“If the pigment doesn’t improve, I’ll sometimes prescribe a mild lightening agent or recommend lip-safe brightening ingredients like niacinamide, but the main thing is protection and patience,” says Dr Kopelman. Also, ‘avoid licking or picking at the lips,” Betts says.
How long will it take to go away?
Good news! “Hyperpigmentation can fade, but it takes time especially on lips where the skin regenerates differently,” warns Betts.
Ok but how long are we talking? “This varies from person to person, but mild pigmentation may fade in 4 to 8 weeks with proper care and sun protection,” she says.
And if yours is more stubborn? “Particularly in melanin-rich skin, it can take several months to visibly improve. The key is consistency and avoiding further irritation or UV exposure.”
3 tips for keeping your lips in top condition
- “SPF on your lips every single day. No exceptions,” says Dr Kopelman.
- “Hydrate inside and out,” she adds. “I drink a lot of water and I always carry a lip balm in every coat, car and purse!”
- “Exfoliate gently once a week with a non-abrasive formula,” advises Dr Andrienko.
The takeaway
Yes, it’s bordering on scandalous that it’s taken an internet-wide outcry for the beauty community to begin discussing how different lips products affect us. But it is clear however, that this issue is not confined to one brand or product.
It is, in fact, the many glossy formulas out there not containing SPF that appear to be the main culprits and there are plenty of brands who sell them.
The great news is that lip hyperpigmentation can go away eventually if you’re consistent (and patient).
Remember to avoid heavily fragranced formulas if you experience hyperpigmentation around your lip area, as well as ingredients like menthol, salicylic acid and citrus and always wear a lip product containing SPF.
Meet the experts
Karen Betts is renowned authority in permanent makeup treatments and founder of Karen Betts Professional.
Dr Hannah Kopelman is a board certified dermatologist and chief medical officer at DermOnDemand.
Dr Anna Andrienko is dermatologist and aesthetic doctor at Dr Ducu Clinics.
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