Here’s Exactly How to Overline Your Lips (While Still Looking Completely Natural)

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Main image – Tanyadanilevich/Stocksy

Ruby Hammer MBE is a celebrity makeup artist, brand founder and regular Live That Glow columnist. She has been providing makeup education for more than 30 years. Here, she advises a reader on how to overline lips without looking obvious.

Overlining is all over my FYP and I’d like to make my lips look a little fuller but I don’t want to look unnatural. What’s the best way to overline while looking natural?

Ruby says:

When done well, overlining can enhance your features beautifully. The key is restraint and knowing where to add volume.

Use a lip pencil no more than one shade deeper than your natural lip tone / lipstick. The easiest way to find your perfect nude lip liner shade is to start with your natural lip colour. Look at your lips in daylight – then choose a liner just one shade deeper. The liner should mimic the natural shadow of your lips, if it does you have the right one. It should define and lift, without looking obvious.

Don’t forget to also look at tone. If your lips have a cool pinkish hue, opt for a liner with a similar rosy or mauve undertone. If they lean warm or peachy, go for something with a touch of terracotta or soft brown. For deeper skin tones opt for richer browns or deep berry – again no more than one shade deeper for a nude appearance. It is about harmony. The right lip liner should blend seamlessly, adding structure and shape whilst staying true to your natural beauty (when looking for a nude).

Once you’ve found the right liner, only use it to extend the line at the cupid’s bow and centre of the lower lip. Then follow your natural lip line at the outer corners – this maintains structure and balance. Finally, gently blur the liner inward before applying lipstick or balm – this keeps the look soft, not drawn-on.

This technique should subtly enhance your lips, not announce itself. It’s about dimension, not drama.

Another personal favourite trick is to add a hint of shimmer to the centre of the lower lip – My Lip Serum Balm in FX is perfect for this. By adding a highlight it brings the lip forward, giving the illusion of fullness.