Think Blowdrying Always Has to Damage Hair? Think Again… Here Are Your 9 Steps to a Healthy Blowout

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Who doesn’t love a big, bouncy blow-dry? Lifted at the roots, swishy on the ends, and everything that makes your hair look like a shampoo advert in between.

But there’s nothing like bursting your good hair day bubble than when someone tells you the heat from your hairdryer is damaging your hair and that leaving it to air dry is much healthier. Yawn. Name me one person who gets that salon-worthy bounce from leaving it to dry naturally. I’ll wait.

So whilst it’s well-known that excessive heat can have a negative effect on the hair, there are, thankfully, lots of things you can do to blow-dry your hair without a side of guilt. Phew.

Here, board certified dermatologist and hair loss specialist, Dr Hannah Kopelman, certified trichologist at 7even Clinic, Natasha Brown and NYC celebrity hair stylist Christina Giarrizzo give their tips on how to rock a shiny, healthy blow-dry.

First up, Is blow drying actually healthier than air drying?

Contrary to what the myths might have you believe, the experts believe that blow-drying is actually better for the hair, in moderation. “It might surprise you, but yes in some cases, blow drying can be healthier than air drying,” explains Brown.

“When hair stays damp for too long, the inner structure swells, which can make strands weaker and more prone to breakage.” But it all depends on how you blow-dry.

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“Using a hairdryer on a low to medium heat setting, and keeping it moving at a safe distance, helps reduce this risk.” And the key is to wait a little before you switch on your dryer. “Rough drying until about 80% dry before styling is usually the sweet spot – it’s kinder to the hair while still allowing you to finish with a polished look.”

Giarrizzo agrees, “Using a blow dryer with a heat protectant on low or medium heat can help close the cuticle and reduce damage,” she says. And Dr Kopelman adds, “the danger only comes from too much heat and tension, which can damage the hair shaft and irritate the scalp.”

Now read on for the experts’ 9 biggest tips to giving yourself the perfect at home blowout – without a side of damage.

1. Towel dry first

“I recommend letting hair dry in a microfiber towel for at least ten to fifteen minutes before using heat,” says Dr Kopelman. “This minimizes the amount of time you expose your hair to high temperatures.” How does a microfiber towel work, as opposed to a normal one? “It helps absorb excess water without roughing up the cuticle,” Brown says.

2. Apply a protectant

“When styling your hair, you should always apply a heat protectant serum or oil while it is still wet,” Giarrizzo advises. “Then, let the hair air dry about 60-80%.” Not applying a heat protector is a bit like going out into the midday sun without wearing SPF. There’s zero protection and you’re leaving the door wide open for damage.

3. Use the right brush

“Be sure to use a boar bristle brush over a metal brush,” Giarrizzo adds. “A boar bristle brush causes less damage to your hair, while a metal brush can overheat and damage your hair.”

Brown recommends a round brush. “A round brush with natural bristles or ceramic-coated barrel is best as it distributes heat evenly and creates tension without snagging,” she says. “They glide through without tugging, breaking strands or damaging cuticles.”

4. Avoid ‘bubble hair’

“This is when tiny bubbles form inside the hair shaft,” Giarrizzo explains. “Bubble hair is caused by using high heat on soaking wet hair or flat ironing your hair when it’s not completely dry.” Oops, guilty.

How to prevent it, apart from using a heat protectant and using a low heat setting? “It’s important to stop applying heat once a section is dry, because over-drying creates brittleness,” says Dr Kopelman. “Keep the dryer moving to avoid heat build-up,” adds Brown.

5. Up your tech game

“Ionic and ceramic dryers distribute heat more evenly and help smooth the hair cuticle, meaning less frizz and less overall damage,” Brown explains. “Ceramic dryers are gentler for fine hair, while ionic dryers are ideal for thicker or frizz-prone strands both cut drying time and minimise damage.”

6. Section your hair like a pro

All the best blow-dries are done in sections which is super important to ensure you’re not repeatedly drying the same area. “Work in small, manageable sections and keep the nozzle aimed down the hair shaft,” advises Brown. “This avoids tugging and unnecessary tension on the scalp.”

7. Apply safe tension

“Gentle, even tension is key,” Brown explains. “Too much pulling stresses both the follicle and the scalp which can lead to breakage or shedding over time.”

8. Position your hairdryer correctly

“Be sure not to hold the blow dryer right on your hair,” Giarrizzo advises. “Keep the heat about two inches away from the hair shaft.”

9. Seal it in

When you’re done, “finish with a cool blast,” recommends Dr Kopelman. “This not only seals the cuticle but also leaves the hair shinier and healthier looking.”

The takeaway

So, there is such a thing as a healthy blow-dry. You just need to arm yourself with a heat protectant, the right brush, some good technique and a bit of clever technology. The experts say it can actually be safer for your hair than if you were to leave it to dry naturally, as long as you take all the measures and you’re not doing it every day.

“When done thoughtfully, blow-drying can be a safe part of a haircare routine, helping maintain strong, healthy strands and a balanced scalp,” adds Brown. “Mindful technique and care protect the hair’s structure, promoting overall shine, resilience, and long-term hair health.”