Breast Cancer Awareness Month: We Talk Treatment-Related Hair Loss
Main image – Renedehaan/Stocksy
It’s Breast Cancer Awareness Month. So, before we go any further, consider this your friendly reminder to keep checking your boobs.
Whether it’s in the shower, in the bath or when you’re getting undressed in the evening, it doesn’t matter. The more you check them, the more familiar you’ll be with how they should feel and, more importantly, how they shouldn’t.
For those who did check and received bad news, here, we’re talking about the elephant in the room – hair. We all know that one of the many cruel side effects of cancer treatment is often hair loss which can be a huge confidence blow for many women.
So, let’s figure out everything you need to know about how to not only grieve the loss of your own hair, but protect your scalp, encourage hair growth and get the absolute best out of your hair piece while your natural hair grows back.
With expert quotes from board-certified dermatologist Dr Michele Green and hair guru Paul Labrecque we hope that by the end of this article you will be armed with all the knowledge needed to make wearing a hair piece in the interim as comfortable as possible.
Why is it common to lose hair during cancer treatment?
“Hair loss is due to radiation,” says Dr Green. “There are specific therapies, including immunotherapies and hormone therapies that can cause hair thinning or hair loss, however this is less common than hair loss resulting from chemotherapy or radiation.”
So how long does it typically take to grow back? “Hair loss due to cancer treatments usually starts within two to four weeks after treatment has begun and typically grows back after treatment ends,” Dr Green explains. “The hair may return in different colours or textures than the original hair that was previously grown. After the treatment is completed, it may take a couple of weeks to a couple of months for the hair to begin growing again.”
Image – Karynabartashevich/Stocksy
Wearing a hair piece in between losing your hair and it growing back is a good option for the interim but not essential. “It’s a completely optional choice that may benefit the patient if they are suffering from body image issues of if the hair growth/loss is inconsistent.”
How to navigate hair loss
It’s scary enough going through cancer, without the worry of losing your hair too but know that any feelings of sadness and grief are valid. “It is important to normalize the grief of losing hair due to cancer treatment as an individual’s hair is deeply tied to their self-identity and esteem,” explains Dr Green. “Acknowledging this fact, is it important to take the time to grieve the hair loss.”
Whether you’re watching a loved one go through it or you are experiencing it yourself, Dr Green says it is common to try to find fun and humour in it. “To help with grief, many patients do a ‘shave the head party’, turning the loss into something fun and trying different haircuts before shaving as well.”
Transitioning to a hair piece can be emotional too, she adds. “So, it is essential to be satisfied with the chosen hair piece and whether it matches the original colour and style or allows for a fresh look. It’s important to take control of the situation so you can be happy with the hair piece chosen.”
There are support groups you can join too. “Being around individuals going through similar situations can be extremely helpful,” says Dr Green.
What to consider first before opting for a hair piece
When it comes to your scalp, it’s important to weigh up your options from a dermatological point of view before wearing a hair piece. “A patient may be concerned about contact dermatitis of the scalp which can cause irritation and inflammation as well as issues with moisture or sweat,” warns Dr Green.
Image – Victortorres/Stocksy
“Another concern is traction alopecia, a form of hair loss caused by the constant pulling of hair follicles from adhesive tapes or clips.” Consider how regularly you might wear yours as constant wear can “cause sweat and moisture to accumulate along the scalp, potentially leading to irritation,” she adds.
How to protect your scalp
If you’re keen on wearing your hair piece for daily use, there are ways to pre-empt scalp irritation. “Perform a patch test with any adhesives or tapes and wait a day or two for any reaction,” Dr Green advises. “A preventative measure if wearing hypoallergenic materials (bamboo, silk etc) and wearing a protective barrier between the hair piece and the scalp.”
“Always store your hair piece on a block that is your actual head size, not larger,” recommends Labrecque. “Wash it gently when it starts to look dirty. This takes longer than doing so on hair because wigs have no sebaceous glands. When it looks dirty, or about every 15 wears.”
Sun protection is still a good idea too. “It is important to still wear sun protection even with a hairpiece with powdered sunscreen, and sunscreen directly to the parts of the exposed scalp,” explains Dr Green. “Keeping the scalp and skin moisturized is crucial for maintaining a healthy scalp, because hairpieces can cause dryness. Alcohol-based products should be avoided like certain hairsprays because they can dry the scalp. Due to this, it is important to wear a breathable wig cap.”
What is the difference between a custom-made wig compared to a traditional, uncustomised wig?
Whilst a standard, ‘off the shelf wig’ can still look natural, a custom made wig will be personalised to you and your exact measurements. “A wig is really a hat, so it will always feel like you are wearing something when it is on,” explains Labrecque. “A custom wig [has] the lace front [and] will give you the most natural-looking hairline [plus] it could be left to dry naturally and it will dry well.”
When it is customized by a professional, “it is fitted to uniquely you and isn’t something that’s available in a simple standard small, medium or large.”
Getting one custom made will be more expensive so consider your budget before you make your decision.
What to look for in a quality hair piece
According to Labrecque, the quality apparently all depends on how fast the turnaround needs to be. “In NYC and Palm Beach, Florida, I specialize in hand-built wigs where every single hair strand is matched to the client’s hair, or better, meaning there will be less frizz when it is completed and worn,” he explains. “I build on lace and each strand is hand-tied after careful measurements have been taken.”
However, this might not work for a cancer patient. “The timing of this type of wig will be too slow, for it takes two to three months to build, whereas a pre-fabricated wig often hand-tied on top but wefted in the back, meaning machine-tied, I can have ready in just a matter of days,” Labrecque says. “If that’s the case, then we would pick hair that’s close to yours, and then begin fitting the cap and customizing the colour.”
What about using your natural hair? “Some clients want to use their own hair, but this results in the longest process of all because their raw hair must be prepared before it is ready for hand tying,” he warns.
What is the process for making a custom wig?
Labrecque walks us through it. “I first mould the hair tightly in plastic wrap,” he says. “This mold will be used to make an exact replica of the head so the wig will fit like a glove. I select hair samples for colour, texture and length and take a lot of pictures so the wig will best mimic your own true hair. The build begins on that, then when made, we cut finish with proper colour and demonstrate and show how it is to be worn.”
Labrecque says he then takes the client’s lead on finding their perfect style. “I let them direct me as to what they want, whether that’s a wig, a top piece, pony, scrunch claw clip, and/or a hat with hair,” he says. “In my world of great customization, almost anything can happen and be made.”
How to wear a hair piece in everyday life
Labrecque advises going for a style with as much natural movement as possible. “Never wear every hair in place,” he says. “Go with hair that’s slightly messy and moves, and/or use your ear to tuck in a piece or two. These are little ways to make everyone know this is the real you, and to help you feel your best, too!”
How to support hair growth, post-treatment
You’ll be feeling unsurprisingly eager to grow your hair back as quickly as possible after having cancer treatment. Helpfully, there are ways to boost hair growth, according to Dr Green.
“Topical or oral minoxidil has been shown to help the regrowth of hair, as well as PRP treatments that can be done in the office,” she explains. “Monoxidal wouldn’t prevent hair loss, but it can help with regrowth. Oral monoxidal can be taken instead of topical if the patient is finding the topical to irritate the skin.”
Always consult a professional first though. “It is important to speak directly with a professional before starting minoxidil because it was created as a blood pressure medication,” she warns. “Any concerns need to be ruled out for patients receiving cancer treatments before starting oral minoxidil.”
You can try hair boosting supplements too. “Certain supplements have been shown to support hair growth, including biotin, vitamin D, Zinc, and iron,” she adds. “Again, it is essential to consult with a healthcare professional before starting.”
The takeaway
Losing your hair because of cancer treatment is like rubbing salt in a very painful wound and it takes guts to succumb to a wig or a hair piece while your natural hair has a break. Allow yourself to grieve your hair loss, whilst also embracing a temporary hair piece that will hopefully help to boost your confidence.
Remember to consider how your skin might react before opting to wear a wig regularly, protect your scalp as much as you can to avoid irritation whilst wearing it and choose a style with as much movement as possible so that it looks natural.
Post-treatment, look into monoxadil whilst consulting a professional, as well as some hair boosting supplements. Next up – kick cancer’s arse and enjoy experimenting with some new haircuts as your hair grows back. You’ve got this.
Meet the experts
Paul Labrecque is Creative Director, Master Stylist and Colorist with Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa
Dr Michele Green is a Board-Certified NYC Cosmetic Dermatologist
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