The Beginners Guide to Applying (Literally Every Type of) Eyeliner Like an MUA
When you see someone with an impressively-lined eye, what do you think? (It’s a niche scenario, but just go with it…) Do you say, “I’m going to try that when I get home”? Or, “There is absolutely no way I would know how to do that”?
If it’s the latter, first of all where did all this self-doubt come from? And secondly, that’s what we’re here for. Welcome to your comprehensive guide to applying eyeliner! Whether you fancy switching up your eyeliner wardrobe or you’re a complete eyeliner novice, this article has got you and your liner look covered.
With help from makeup artists Ashley Gibson and Monina Wright, we talk techniques and textures, plus I will be sharing my personal tricks for creating a smoky eye using eyeliner.
Get ready for some serious eyeliner intel.
The liner line-up
- Pencil: Perfect for beginners. “They’re generally easier and more forgiving than liquid or gel liners,” says Gibson.
- Liquid: The one that seasoned liner users like to create the ever-popular feline flick with. It can get very messy though, so it’s not advised for those who have never picked up an eyeliner before.
- Gel: Creates a similar look to a liquid liner only it’s less messy so slightly easier to apply.
- Cream: “Versatile and known for its smooth, blendable texture,” says Gibson. Perfect for those wanting a smudgeable, smokey finish.
How to apply liquid eyeliner
1. Make sure the eye area is prepped. “Start with a clean, dry eyelid and consider using an eyeshadow primer to help the liner stay in place,” Gibson explains.
2. [PRO TIP] Take your time. “Sit down and place a mirror on a table in front of you so that you can look down into it. Rest your elbow on the table for stability,” Gibson says. “This position makes it easier to apply the liner without your hand shaking.”
3. Start with small strokes. “Instead of trying to draw one continuous line, use small, connected strokes,” she adds. “Start from the middle of your eye and move towards the outer corner. Once you’ve lined the outer part of your lash line, go back and line the inner corner of your eye, connecting it to the middle part.
Image – Live That Glow
This should create a smooth, continuous line along your upper lash line. You can make the line as thin or as thick as you prefer. If the line isn’t as smooth or as straight as you’d like, slowly go over it again to refine it.”
4. Choose your shape. “For a basic look, follow the natural shape of your eye,” Gibson explains. “If you want a cat-eye or winged liner, extend the line slightly upward at the outer corner of your eye. Use a small, light stroke to create the wing, then connect it back to the main line on your lid, filling in any gaps.”
Image – Live That Glow
5. Let it dry. “Keep your eye closed or look down for a few seconds to allow the liner to dry. This prevents it from smudging onto the upper part of your eyelid,” Gibson suggests. I sometimes close my eyes and blow upwards on each side (like you do when you’re trying to blow hair out of your eye!) to speed up the drying process!
6. Clean up any mess. “Use a pointed cotton swab dipped in makeup remover to clean up any edges or to correct mistakes,” advises Gibson.
Image – Live That Glow
How to apply pencil eyeliner
1. Prep your eyelids and eye area with an eyeshadow primer as per the liquid liner step by step.
2. [PRO TIP] Make sure your pencil is sharp. “This is for a more precise line,” Gibson says. For a more smudged, smokey finish though, “a slightly duller pencil can be more effective.”
Image – Live That Glow
3. Take your time. Sit in the same position Gibson advises for liquid liner application; “Sit down with a mirror in front of you,” she says. “Rest your elbow on a stable surface to keep your hand steady.”
4. Use short strokes. “Begin applying the eyeliner from the middle of your upper eyelid, moving towards the outer corner of your eye,” Gibson explains.
Image – Live That Glow
“Use short, light strokes to create a thin line. Once you’ve lined the outer part of your lid, go back and line the inner corner of your eye, connecting it to the middle part.”
5. Adjust the thickness. “If you want a thicker line, go back over the initial line with slightly more pressure or build it up with additional strokes,” she adds.
How to apply gel liner
1. Use the right brush. “Dip a synthetic, thin angled brush into your gel liner,” says Wright. “Apply onto both sides of the brush but not too much product to avoid clumping.”
2. Apply the ‘small strokes’ rule. After prepping the eye, “starting in the inner corner of the upper eyelid create little strokes, but draw the lines as close to the last line as possible,” she says. “Continue strokes until you reach the last lashes on the outer corner of your eyes.”
Image – Live That Glow
3. Assess the thickness of your line. As per with pencil, go over your original line with a bit more pressure if you want it to be thicker adding a tiny bit more gel to the brush if needed.
How to use cream liner
1. Apply your eyeshadow first. I use a cream liner to create a smoky eye because it’s so easy to smudge. Just always make sure you apply your eyeshadow colours first to build up your smoky eye. Then you can use eyeliner as the grand finale!
2. [PRO TIP] Apply light pressure. A cream eyeliner is usually super soft, so you don’t need to press too hard as you apply. Run it slowly along your top lash line and don’t worry if it’s not perfect.
Image – Live That Glow
3. Use a smudging eye brush to press and blend your eyeliner into your lash line, creating a ‘slept in your makeup’ sort of look. The idea with a smoky eye is that you don’t have a perfect, straight line but more of a smudged, casual finish.
How to do winged liner
Now that you’re an eyeliner pro, I think you deserve an upgrade. How about giving the feline flick a go?
1. Follow steps 1 and 2 of how to apply liquid liner.
2. [PRO TIP] Using a felt tip liner pen, draw yourself a guideline using dots. Start at the inner corner of your lash line, then dot all the way along your lash line, winging your dots outwards and upwards when you get to your outer corner to make a flick.
3. Then go back and connect the dots, just as you would with a dot-to-dot puzzle. Make sure you go slowly and that you have a steady hand.
4. To give it more punch, you can make the flicked-out line slightly thicker than the rest of your line. Again, use dots underneath the initial flick to give yourself a template.
5. Close your eyes and wait for it to dry so that it doesn’t transfer onto your eyelids or beneath your brow bone.
Image – Live That Glow
Eyeliner VS Hooded Eyes
Whether your natural eye shape is hooded, or you’re experiencing newly hooded eyes as you mature, it can get in the way of creating a perfect liner look.
Ditch the wing! “If you have hooded eyes the best way to apply eyeliner is to avoid doing any type of a wing,” Wright says. “Only line along the natural lash line to avoid eyeliner from transferring onto the top eyelid.”
At what step should you apply liner?
Usually, you would apply eyeliner after your under-eye concealer and eyeshadow, and before your mascara. If you apply eyeliner underneath your eyeshadow, the eyeliner will be covered up and so will your definition.
If you’re creating a winged eyeliner look and it is the ‘main event’ of your look, then you probably won’t be applying much eyeshadow anyway.
In all cases, mascara should be applied after your eyeliner. This is so that your newly coated (and probably longer) lashes don’t get in the way of your eyeliner application.
Image – Live That Glow
Should eyeliner go on both the top and bottom lids?
Wright says it all comes down to personal preference. “If you want to elongate the eyes, applying liner on the top of the lids into a wing will do the trick,” she says.
“If you want to make your eyes look more rounded, applying liner just to the last lash on the top and bottom lashes will create that look. If you want your eyes to look more dramatic you can line just along the water lines on the bottom, then smudging more liner under the lower lashes.”
And if you want to make your eyes look smaller, “apply liner just in the water lines or line the entire lower lashes with eyeliner.”
The takeaway
One thing’s for sure, eyeliner has us spoilt for choice! With so many formulations, application techniques and looks to choose from, it’s no wonder it can be a little bit intimidating.
But identifying the look you want, understanding you’re suited texture and following the above step by steps should help bust any confusion.
Make sure you prep the eyes before you apply eyeliner, use small strokes and take it slowly. And always position yourself so that you’re comfortable, with a steady hand.
“Remember, the key to perfecting eyeliner is practice,” Gibson adds. I’d say now is as good a time as any!
Meet the experts
Ashley Nichole Gibson is a licensed aesthetician and makeup artist who owns Paraposh, which provides on-site makeup services. Specialising in bridal makeup, her experience also extends to training and education for cosmetic brands, conducting master classes at Ulta, and working as a makeup artist at QVC for beauty brands.
Monina Wright is a licensed aesthetician and professional makeup artist in the Bay Area. She is the founder + CEO of Moderne Beauty & Esthetics where she works and mentors aspiring makeup artists while helping women achieve their natural glow through individualised skincare.
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